Katavi National Park

We departed Selous with great memories and flew 3 hours west to Katavi National Park.  This is one of the smallest national parks at about 2000 sq. miles, and it is probably the most remote and least visited.  We were met by the camp’s owner Tom Lithgow, a 2^nd generation Tanzanian whose grandparents hailed from Austria.  At 6’5 and a lean 250lbs or so he is pretty much a cross between Arnold Swarzennegger and Harrison Ford except he doesn’t pretend to be an adventurer, he is.  Tom’s father is a retired big game hunter.  Tom got his license to hunt as a young man but didn’t have the heart or desire.  Instead he spent a few years in the US training to be an Olympic discus thrower.  He was 4^th for the UK.  He is a super cool guy with some incredible life experiences.  Tom is 52 and he could unquestionably toy with me in a fight.  Do you sense a fighting theme?  He owns this camp and the next (our final) and a 3^rd in the Serengeti and is personally guiding us which is a really unexpected treat.  We came to the camp and they have fixed tents on wooden platforms overlooking a small river.  Enjoyed a great bonfire and meal and it was a great day.  We knew we would all enjoy Katavi.

Day 2 we headed out for a relatively early game drive. We were awakened by African Fish eagles (very similar to bald eagles in appearance and mannerisms but slightly smaller). Katavi is famous for crocodiles and hippos and it sure delivered. The local rivers are said to have the largest concentrations of crocs and hippos in Africa and I’d be shocked to see more. It is the middle of the dry season and the main river is mostly dry and so the hippos are all huddled in the remaining water. Tom thought that a lot of them wouldn’t make it through another 6-8 weeks of heat but that is natural selection at work. This area is absolutely parched but when it rains it pours. He pointed out that in the wet or mid seasons all you see of crocs and hippos are their eyes. Now they are going into survival mode and are out and about. The crocs apparently go into tunnels or stay in dry areas and get their heart rates down to 2 beats per minute. You can go right up and sit next to them and if they see you aren’t a threat they don’t get agitated and let you be as they instinctively are giving themselves the best chance at survival. Didn’t try that but opted to believe he was telling the truth. We saw 2 female and one male lion along with their hour or so old buffalo kill. They were absolutely gorged and completely lethargic. Buffalo wasn’t doing so well. Tom noticed it had some growths around its knees and was obviously the slowest of the herd. Again natural selection at work. We also saw a wealth of other animals (waterbuck, bushbuck, reedbuck, zebra, giraffe, elephants, monkeys, baboons and birds of every feather) and it was really interesting to see them in such a different ecosystem. Katavi is really dry ad grassy with loads of palm trees, an incredible variety of hardwoods, and grasses that reach over 10 feet in height.

Day 3 was spent on another safari drive and hike. The animals here see so few people and vehicles that they get really easily spooked by our presence. We saw a herd of about 1000 buffalo running through the woods and they completely split up and dashed in different directions when they saw us. We enjoyed breakfast out in the bush and then hiked part of the way back to camp with an Uzi carrying guard and Tom carrying his trusty .375 rifle. Felt pretty safe. Didn’t see much except birds and a few warthog and it was getting hot. Sydney wasn’t feeling well and so we stopped so she could rest. She was really white and faint. After her color returned Hayden was next in feeling bad. I was thinking what the heck we’ve only hiked a mile and our kids are usually total troopers. It was about 95 and we quickly realized that they were pretty dehydrated so we rode the rest of the way back to camp. Think the odds are good for survival for all. Today was our last day of safari.



Tom, Nella and Traci at "sundowners" after a day one game walk



Typical sunset enhanced by the smoke



14 foot croc.  Big feller



Herd of about 400 buffalo.  They are much more wild here than in other areas.  They flee any sound of vehicles and are in stark contrast to those in the Mara who stare you down at close range.



Guarding a fresh buffalo kill (a few hours old).  The 2 lionesses below were equally gorged but smart enough to find some shade.  First african male lion that appeared to be working.



Check out that swollen belly



Shaking seed pods from a tree



Crocs and hippos everywhere



Good view of the lower incisors...I took this from about 8' away (or have a good zoom on my camera)



Mom teaching her baby to dig for more purified water rather than the hippo slop



Mostly dried lake bed with hippos in what pools remain



Hot and dehydrated after a warm walk



Halle has a fake frown.  Hayden is not happy