Greece Part II

 

Ios has been a wonderful break. By far our most mellow, leisurely time since starting our adventure.  I guess life is good when you can vacation within a vacation.  The island of Ios (and I think most of the Greek islands for that matter) is famous for partying amongst the traveling youth of summer, but thankfully those folks are elsewhere and we have been left with a largely uncrowded island, warm water, and mostly fabulous weather. Just missed the crowds as planned.  Ios is reknowed as the alleged birthplace of Homer.  Alleged because after 2500 or so years there is a lot of room for change and interpretation.  With the exception of one day for a boat tour, we’ve been roadschooling each morning from about 9-1.  We put together our first detailed weekly school lesson plans for each of the kids and they tackled thier work with vigor.  Knowing what to expect each day has been really important.  In the afternoons we enjoyed the fabulous beaches, cliff jumping, and relaxing. 

Our second day here we rented a little Suzuki 4x4 miniature, convertible SUV and drove on a bunch of dirt and rock roads to some very remote beaches.  I know things aren’t normal in my life when it has been 11 weeks since I last drove a car.  No worries.   Next to swimming pools I’m certain that my kid’s favorite activity is going over big bumps in the roads in a 4x4.  The bigger the bump and the faster it is hit, the better.  My only governor was trying to find a balance between fun and keeping them in the rear seat (only 2 seatbelts and last time I checked we had 3 kids).  

 

In the middle of the week here we rented a small (about 14’) boat with a whopping 25hp engine and toured around the island.   Probably about a 25 mile circuit.   I assured the rental guy that I had been driving a boat for over 30 years.   He showed me how to switch gas lines in case one tank ran dry (Duh!).   I am very thankful to have had a youth and subsequent adulthood with ample experience at driving boats and operating various types of machinery.   So we set off out of Ios’ famously protected harbor. The weather was forecast to change and there were a few clouds in the sky (those hadn’t been seen in the area since June).

Just sit right back and you’ll hear a tale

A tale of a fateful trip
That started from a tropic port
Aboard this tiny ship
The mate was a might sailor man
The skipper brave and sure
5 passengers that sailed that day
For a 3 hour tour
A 3 hour tour

“A 3 Hour Tour” and what else I could remember of the Gilligan’s Island theme song (sadly, all of it) kept ringing through my head. “What was that dear?” Traci shouted over the impossibly loud whine of the little fourstroke engine at full throttle. “Nothing dear!” I kept signing to myself as we encountered some unexpectedly large swells and a decent but usual northerly wind. No worries though as I was confident that we’d be out of the wind soon.   I was told to expect a rough first 1/3 of the trip then smooth sailing after that.  Well the first 1/3 wasn’t too bad.  The kids were hooting and hollering with each big swell. The boat we were in was deemed by the rental man to be “a copy of the American scout!” and it was super stable.   It was not Christened “The Minnow” but rather“Booze Cruze I.”   Great.   We found a protected cove with some nice cliffs to huck from. Being such a giver I donned goggles and a mask and found a narrow and safe landing zone into which Sydney and Hayden could launch (Halle smartly stayed with Traci in the boat). I pointed out the landing zone (“Don’t land on me but don’t land too far from me!) and Hayden and Sydney then stuck the 20 footer. I smiled at yet another example of my great parenting but then I realized that they were waiting for me to do it as well. From the top it really did look like you were jumping into an area that wasn’t deep enough but alas I had to do it, closed my eyes, and cleared the underwater rocks with ease, or so I like to think. 

We next motored to a lovely, deserted sand beach and enjoyed some serious rock skipping and a brief swim. The kids hunger wasn’t satisfied by our meager snacks so we headed for a restaurant about ½ way around the island. The wind was blowing much harder now and seemed to be switching directions.  No worries we were close to lunch.  We saw some amazing cliffs that would have been a dream to jump from but unfortunately the swells were getting larger.   Much larger.

The weather started getting rough

The tiny ship was tossed
If not for the courage of the fearless crew
The minnow would be lost
The minnow would be lost

We rounded the point and into the bay where lunch awaited. The swells were huge and frothy and the wind had switched to the southwest. After double anchoring the boat we wandered into the mostly deserted restaurant and were promptly told by a couple of old timers that we should leave the boat, take the bus back, and have the rental guy get the boat later. I thought that sound advice so I called the rental guy and he said he was nearby in another bigger boat and we’d discuss shortly. After a quick lunch he pulled up and said to put the kids in his boat (in front to their delight) so as to get some weight out of our boat so we could more quickly follow him. Traci stayed with me, insisting to be my first mate.   We headed out to the southwest, hitting these big waves straight on. We next turned to the north and the waves were approaching us from the side. It was a bit scary but the boat was very stable and we were following another much bigger boat. We caught some big air, the boat slammed down a time or two which really didn’t help either of our damaged vertebrae, and we stayed a couple blocks away from the cliffs and jagged rocks of shore.  I wanted to take a picture but it was all I could do to hang on with one hand and steer with the other. The boat would barely plane and Traci was in the center of the boat trying to hang on yet keep enough weight forward so we could plane and keep up.   I’m fairly confident driving, and always trying to anticipate what future problems could arise, but in this instance I had no idea how close I was to the limits of the boat. On the lakes at home, if ever caught in a big wind, it’s pretty simple…don’t let the nose get submerged. In a strange boat, in strangely huge waves, I had no idea of how close I was to the limits. I thought of running out of gas or the engine failing but the rental guy assured me that one tank should be enough for the circuit.   I was a bit peeved that I didn’t check the fuel at lunch but that was then.   Should be enough.  Woulda coulda shoulda. About a minute later the engine sputtered the familiar sputter of fuel exhaustion.  I really wanted to have power to put the bow into any huge waves but wanting and having weren't possible at the moment.  First mate Traci thankfully had been watching me practice changing the fuel lines before we started and quickly changed the line and the slip connect to the full tank.   Love that woman.  Gilligan has nothing on her except a sweet hat.   Onward again no harm no foul.

So thankfully no ship aground on the shore of the inhabited Greek Isle. We made it back safely to harbor and the rental guy said it was good that we got back as the waves were forecast to grow from 5 ½ -6, to 7. I don’t know if wave heights are measured in feet or meters. I looked on a marine forecast website the day after and everything was in meters so I'm sticking to that. Regardless, big waves, little boat. A 3 hour tour! Very adventurous and not a trip I’ll forget nor want to do again in the immediate future.

During a visit to a dive shop at a local beach, we met a lovely Australian couple named Kate and Jason.   They are hanging in Ios for a few years and running this shop after spending 7 years sailing around the world.   Kate said she could give all the kids an introduction to scuba diving and the kids all gamely gave it a go.  She and Jason were just fabulous, energetic teachers and the kids are hooked.   You can get certified once you are 10 years old and Sydney and Hayden received credit toward their certifications which they can hopefully complete in the spring in Thailand or Indonesia. Super cool experience for them.   I still remember my first time diving and know the kid's found it magical as well.   Another great family experience but one that I'm sure will dig deeply into the kid's inheritance.

 

 

Traci discussing ancient Minoan civilizations




Traci and Hayden at a typically crowded beach




Finishing "The Illiad" (it just looks like Facetime)




Sydney and Halle getting ready for some wedding photos.  We rent them out for any occasion



Halle doesn't hesitate off the 8m/26' cliff.  She's reached the top of her parent's comfort zone




Slippery boogie board



The rock skipping master

 


Sunset at the hotel in Ios


 

 



A very trusting daughter



and son



First Mate Traci and our hearty vessel




Part of the fearless crew



Ready for mutiny

The skipper brave and sure




Scared silly

 

Halle doing an exercise to practice bouyancy control



Thank you very much



Sea nymph Sydney

The kids think scuba diving is pretty cool

Greece

 

We arrived in Athens without a hitch and with all of our luggage after a brief layover in Budapest, Hungary. Only saw the airport but enough to make the kids do a country report and add another country to the list!  It is interesting that we currently have an amount of luggage that if very skillfully packed creates 3 airport luggage carts full of luggage. As we have approximately three children, we are fortunate that the kids love to schlep these carts to and from the curb.

 

Athens is a big, hot, dirty, smoggy city with crazy drivers, graffiti and litter everywhere. Soon after our arrival, I broke down and smoked three cigarettes; not directly but solely from secondhand smoke. All that being said, the magic of the first view of the Acropolis, Parthenon, and the other ancient relics far outweighs the negatives. When in Africa we visited a coastal town called Lamu which was founded in the mid 1300’s.  Here you view ruins that date from over 2500 B.C.  I tried drawing a timeline for the kids to explain B.C. and A.D. and it was shocking to think of time as far before Christ as after his death.  We stayed at a quaint little hotel a few blocks from the Acropolis and enjoyed a great walk and dinner before retiring to our hotel.

Day 2 was devoted to touring the Acropolis and Parthenon, as well as spending several hours in the incredible Acropolis museum. We had a great guide named Catherine who is Greek but spent many years in the UK and she spoke flawless English. She was very pregnant and not at the same energy level as our gang but her knowledge and her kid friendliness were awesome. It was super-interesting to learn about the history of Athens. This place has just been a proverbial whipping post for its entire existence.  Greeks, Persians, Greeks, Persians, Turks, Greeks, Venetians, Spartans, Greeks, Turks, British, Germans (WWII), Turks and finally the Greeks. I’m sure that is not the correct order but you get the picture.  Throughout invasion after invasion the amazing relics were plundered and re-plundered and it is shocking that so much remains.  The British absolutely defaced the Parthenon and much of what would still remain is in the British Museum because the governor who looted it couldn’t afford to keep it as it cost him so much to ship it to Britain and the Brits now won't give it back.  To the victors go the spoils.

Day 3 we headed out of town to Corinth and its canal (which creates the Island of Peloponnese) and we visited the ruins of Mycenae (2500 B.C.+) which is where it was believed that King Agamemnon of the Iliad fame ruled. Unfortunately for the German guy who found the site in the late 1800’s and upon digging up a grave said “I have seen Agamemnon’s face”, it seems that modern archeologists have dated the site to about 400 years prior to the good king’s time.

We next ventured to the small port town of Nafplio which was the first capital of Greece around 1830.  There is a huge castle here called Palamidi which was built by the Venetians about 500 years ago.  You can drive up part way or take a famous walk up the 1000 steps.  We opted for the latter even though we were baking in the sun and it was about 100 degrees.  Kids were once again troopers.  If you can make a game out of any adventure for kids, they will forget about the difficulty.  In this case it was counting the steps with the promise of a swim and gelato afterwards. They could have done 10,000 steps. After a tour of the castle which was pretty open and the kids were able to run wild, we descended and they made their initial foray into the Aegean Sea.

Day 4 we returned to Athens after a stop at Epidarus and its famous amphitheater. This holds about 14,500 people and the acoustics are phenomenal.  We next drove past Athens to Marathon and the start of the famous journey.  After a victorious battle with the Persians, the soldier and runner Pelipides ran 26 miles in full armor to Athens to let the people know that the Athenians were victorious.  He then promptly dropped dead.  We enjoyed a brief race from the start of the Olympic marathon race (Hayden won) and then visited the Marathon graveyard where the 192 soldiers who died in the battle are entombed. Kids were roasting so as savvy parents we drove to the beach at Marathon and all had a swim with about 5,000 of our best Greek friends.  Beautiful water, very alkaline and a person (especially one like me) floats like a bobber.

Day 5 we said a very early goodbye to Athens and laughably carried our ginormous load of luggage onto a high speed ferry destined for the Cycladic Islands, and our next destination Santorini.  This was a huge catamaran about 10x the size of the Victoria Clipper and it must have cruised at about 40 knots.  A wonderful 5 hours to just read and relax.

Santorini was absolutely stunning.  Santorini is essentially what remains of an enormous volcanic explosion about 3,600 years ago. This created the caldera (the surviving perimeter of the volcano) and the giant central lagoon that is about 8 x 4 miles.  The caldera consists of almost 1000 foot cliffs on 3 three sides. The villages are all situated on this surviving perimeter and will be enjoyed for generations to come or at least until the next earthquake when many will likely topple to the lagoon.  We had a super cool cave hotel in a village called Ia which is at the northern tip of the main crescent shaped island.

We focused on starting “road school” and in the afternoons did a little exploring and a lot of swimming and hiking.  At the bottom of the cliff our hotel was perched on, there was a small swimming area with some great cliffs for jumping and diving. A small island called St. Nicolas with about a 20’ leap off the base of an old lighthouse provided for several incredibly fun afternoons.

After an incredible short week, we bid adieu to Santorini and caught a small ferry to Ios, a much smaller and quieter island about 20 miles north of Santorini. This morning was a much focused, organized morning of homework. In fact my scholars are studying now so I am able to write. We are looking forward to mornings of studying and afternoons of adventures in search of the perfect cliffs.



Professional schleppers

 

View of the Acropolis (the mountaintop) and the Parthenon (the building)

 

The Parthenon and young gods and goddesses hurtling lightning bolts

 



Corinth Canal (bunging jumping available...all declined)



The ruins of Mycenae and the Lions Gate (circa 2500 B.C.)



Nafplio.  Bottom of the 1000 steps to the Palamidi Castle



Nafplio.  Top of the 1000 steps to the Palamidi Castle



Nafplio.  First swim in the Mediterranean



Gelato.  Sure to get a smile and a small reward for a big climb



Theater at Epidarus



Marathon and the official start of the mother of all marathons



Sprinting the first .1 of the 26.2 miles




Victorious Hayden and his olive wreath reward



Ferry to Santorini. 

 

Ia from the water



Looking down to the sea and the kids on the porch of our hotel room



Sydney with some good "air sense"



I tried to save Hayden

Syd flipping out



Sydney and Hayden



Halle getting her courage up for the 20' jump

and receiving a congratulatory high 5 from her big sister



Halle showing Traci the proper technique

 

Dolomites, Italy

Playing a little catch up here so please forgive.  That is a sign that as much as I truly love writing, blogging, embellishing, etc., I was too busy enjoying other activities.  The Dolomites were an amazing family adventure and just what the doctor (that would be Traci) ordered for some great family exercise and adventure.  Other than not receiving or luggage for 2 days (Traci not for 4) and having to buy some warm clothes, it was a fabulous adventure. After a very easy transition day in Corvara (high on the list of places I want to return to in any season), we set off on a short, 30 minute drive to our first hike.  We arrived at a tram station that headed pretty much straight up a huge cliff about 2500 feet above us.  I thought we were going to head up the tram and enjoy a lovely hilltop hike.  I jokingly asked Sydney if she’d rather hike or take the lift and she fully expectantly said “hike” and so it was to be.  We enjoyed an easy hike for about 45 minutes to the base of the cliff and then the harnesses, helmets and headlamps came out.   But first a bit of history through my likely warped lens….


In this area of northeast Italy, WWI the Austrians fought against the Italians.  The Italians joined what in hindsight was the winning side of the war because they were promised some sweet mountain territory in the area that is currently the Dolomites.  Perhaps they envisioned the 1956 Olympics in Cortina but I doubt it.  So the Italians and the Austrians rushed to the hills and had to hunker down and defend the incredibly steep, difficult mountain passes.  They quickly fought to a draw as once an army had the high ground it was almost impossible to penetrate. In addition the winters were abominable.  As the war progressed they realized that the only way to get through was to win the high ground or to go through it.  So they dug an amazing network of tunnels and trails through and on the sides of these vast cliffs (think Yosemite X 20).  To aid them in getting heavy equipment up the hills they added steel cables or ropes to the trails and the world’s first “via ferrata” (Italian for iron road) were established.  After the war the steepest trails and tunnels (places where if you fall you die) were outfitted with steel ladders and cables that were drilled and set deep in the rock by the Italian Alpine Club.  So you can be a big wimp and afraid of heights like your humble author but all you do is wear a harness and on that harness you have attached a couple of 3’ ropes with carabineers (climbing clips) and you hike along clipped to the cable until you come to a big eyebolt that supports the cable.  You then hold on to the cable, unclip one, move it past the bolt and reclip it, then hold on, move the second above the eyebolt, and continue on to the next eyebolt.  Rinse and repeat.  You are safe from falling 100% of the time as you are always clipped but your mind doesn’t quite comprehend this, at least mine doesn’t, nor did Traci’s nor did Sydney’s. 
These via ferrata are now everywhere and in between them are miles of beautiful hikes and also interspersed are a variety of rifugio (refuges) which are restaurants which also offer boarding in simple rooms or dormitories.  This is also the area where the Sylvester Stallone movie “Cliffhanger” was filmed. 

So all geared up we began our first via ferrata. We hiked along some very exposed trails that were about 4 feet wide with about a 300’ drop. We then entered a tunnel that zigged and zagged up and inside the mountain for about 1500’. Super steep and slippery with many 24”steps. Kids were very impressive. I thought the tunnel must have been dug by midgets or enslaved children and was thankful I had a hard hat. We came out on top and hiked across some very hairy exposures. Sydney wasn’t particularly pleased. We had two Italian brothers who were guiding us that first day, Daniela and Enrico Geremia, and they stood on the edges without being hooked up and helped the kids. They were as comfortable standing 6” away from the edge of a 1000’ cliff as I’d be on a sidewalk. Still scares me to think about it.

So we bagged our first peak, Mt. Lagazuoi, which was about 9000’.We stayed at the Rifugio Lagazuoi at the peak and it was just a real treat to be exhilarated, exhausted, and enjoying good food and simple lodging. Traci and I were both super proud of all the kids. It was a great workout for us and I can’t imagine how tough it must have been for their shorter legs.

The following day we hiked down an easier route and then hiked a fairly easy 4 or 5 hours through a couple mountain passes to another Rifugio called Passo Giau.Next day was a bit harder climbing several more difficult passes (but no via ferrata) to our final Rifugio, called Citta’Di Fiume.The kids were super energized and on the way down from a high pass they decided to play the “follow dad’s footsteps” game.  I was having a blast making them try to follow huge footsteps, doing stupid little dances, etc.  At one point we were traversing a small cattle farm and I tried to get fancy and jump over a small ravine in between some large cow pies.  Instead I slipped and instantly planted both forearms and hands in the mud and dung and mess.  Full belly laughs by Traci and all the kids.  I didn’t think it was particularly humorous.

So we made it to our rifugio and I really enjoyed cleaning up. This rifugio was at the base of the spectacular Mt. Pelmo, and all of the kids spent about 4 hours attempting to dam the small creek that ran nearby.  Ah the small things in life.  The manager at the rifugio washed a load of laundry for us and will forever be in my heart for not forcing me to deal with my feeble attempts at hand washing.

Our last day we hiked down to the local access road and caught a taxi to a local climbing hill.  We geared up again and did a small but very exposed via ferrata, followed by some rock climbing about 100’ up what was the easiest route on the cliff but despite being roped up it was one of the toughest things I’ve done.  Traci made it look easy and the kids experienced varying degrees of success.

The climbing over, we enjoyed an outdoor cookout on a picnic table in a small village and were treated to cold drinks by the neighbor, an act of kindness I will remember.  The Dolomites were a stunning, healthy, simple and wonderful adventure.  I was fearful of a letdown from Africa but the kids absolutely loved it and I’m already yearning to return in the future for a week to 10 days.

We drove 2 hours to Venice and stayed in the luxury of the airport Courtyard Mariott, then were off to Greece via Budapest.  Our traveling circus of baggage came back to bite us as we were charged the GDP of small African nation for the 50 kilos above what we were allowed.


The hike begins to Mt. Lagazuoi

Looks like a perfectly good tram to me



Daniele gearing up the kids

We're cool...



The fearless duo



The first summit

Lucky to have survived.. Hanging on the edge of a 3000' precipice. Thank goodness the kids are strong and worked as a team to save me.



REALLY hungry for lunch after all that climbing

Thank goodness dinner was only 3 hours later

A mountain pass (Averau) successfully achieved

Rifigio Passo Giau at the end of day 2






Only in the wonderful world of Halle do you skip down trails of loose rock



Hands of dung

The brats are still laughing

 



Carnage at the end of day 3

Young engineers at work damming the local creek

Note to our parents...they each have two ropes attached and they are also roped to our guide Enrico who is also attached.  Triple safety system...Obviously stellar parenting.

 


Traci easily reaching the top of the climbing route

Traci hanging out.  She hates heights and that is definitely a forced smile

Lucky man

For Hayden the Dolomites were a truly life-changing experience.