Playing a little catch up here so
please forgive. That is a sign that as
much as I truly love writing, blogging, embellishing, etc., I was too busy
enjoying other activities. The Dolomites
were an amazing family adventure and just what the doctor (that would be Traci)
ordered for some great family exercise and adventure. Other than not receiving or luggage for 2
days (Traci not for 4) and having to buy some warm clothes, it was a fabulous
adventure. After a very easy transition day in Corvara (high on the list of
places I want to return to in any season), we set off on a short, 30 minute
drive to our first hike. We arrived at a
tram station that headed pretty much straight up a huge cliff about 2500 feet
above us. I thought we were going to
head up the tram and enjoy a lovely hilltop hike. I jokingly asked Sydney if she’d rather hike
or take the lift and she fully expectantly said “hike” and so it was to
be. We enjoyed an easy hike for about 45
minutes to the base of the cliff and then the harnesses, helmets and headlamps
came out. But first a bit of history
through my likely warped lens….
In this area of northeast Italy, WWI
the Austrians fought against the Italians.
The Italians joined what in hindsight was the winning side of the war because
they were promised some sweet mountain territory in the area that is currently
the Dolomites. Perhaps they envisioned
the 1956 Olympics in Cortina but I doubt it.
So the Italians and the Austrians rushed to the hills and had to hunker
down and defend the incredibly steep, difficult mountain passes. They quickly fought to a draw as once an army
had the high ground it was almost impossible to penetrate. In addition the
winters were abominable. As the war
progressed they realized that the only way to get through was to win the high
ground or to go through it. So they dug an
amazing network of tunnels and trails through and on the sides of these vast
cliffs (think Yosemite X 20). To aid
them in getting heavy equipment up the hills they added steel cables or ropes
to the trails and the world’s first “via ferrata” (Italian for iron road) were
established. After the war the steepest
trails and tunnels (places where if you fall you die) were outfitted with steel
ladders and cables that were drilled and set deep in the rock by the Italian
Alpine Club. So you can be a big wimp
and afraid of heights like your humble author but all you do is wear a harness
and on that harness you have attached a couple of 3’ ropes with carabineers
(climbing clips) and you hike along clipped to the cable until you come to a
big eyebolt that supports the cable. You
then hold on to the cable, unclip one, move it past the bolt and reclip it,
then hold on, move the second above the eyebolt, and continue on to the next
eyebolt. Rinse and repeat. You are safe from falling 100% of the time as
you are always clipped but your mind doesn’t quite comprehend this, at least
mine doesn’t, nor did Traci’s nor did Sydney’s.
These via ferrata are now everywhere and in between them are miles of
beautiful hikes and also interspersed are a variety of rifugio (refuges) which
are restaurants which also offer boarding in simple rooms or dormitories. This is also the area where the Sylvester
Stallone movie “Cliffhanger” was filmed.
So all geared up we began our first via ferrata. We hiked along some very exposed trails that were about 4 feet wide with about a 300’ drop. We then entered a tunnel that zigged and zagged up and inside the mountain for about 1500’. Super steep and slippery with many 24”steps. Kids were very impressive. I thought the tunnel must have been dug by midgets or enslaved children and was thankful I had a hard hat. We came out on top and hiked across some very hairy exposures. Sydney wasn’t particularly pleased. We had two Italian brothers who were guiding us that first day, Daniela and Enrico Geremia, and they stood on the edges without being hooked up and helped the kids. They were as comfortable standing 6” away from the edge of a 1000’ cliff as I’d be on a sidewalk. Still scares me to think about it.
So we bagged our first peak, Mt. Lagazuoi, which was about 9000’.We stayed at the Rifugio Lagazuoi at the peak and it was just a real treat to be exhilarated, exhausted, and enjoying good food and simple lodging. Traci and I were both super proud of all the kids. It was a great workout for us and I can’t imagine how tough it must have been for their shorter legs.
The following day we hiked down an easier route and then hiked a fairly easy 4 or 5 hours through a couple mountain passes to another Rifugio called Passo Giau.Next day was a bit harder climbing several more difficult passes (but no via ferrata) to our final Rifugio, called Citta’Di Fiume.The kids were super energized and on the way down from a high pass they decided to play the “follow dad’s footsteps” game. I was having a blast making them try to follow huge footsteps, doing stupid little dances, etc. At one point we were traversing a small cattle farm and I tried to get fancy and jump over a small ravine in between some large cow pies. Instead I slipped and instantly planted both forearms and hands in the mud and dung and mess. Full belly laughs by Traci and all the kids. I didn’t think it was particularly humorous.
So we made it to our rifugio and I really enjoyed cleaning up. This rifugio was at the base of the spectacular Mt. Pelmo, and all of the kids spent about 4 hours attempting to dam the small creek that ran nearby. Ah the small things in life. The manager at the rifugio washed a load of laundry for us and will forever be in my heart for not forcing me to deal with my feeble attempts at hand washing.
Our last day we hiked down to the local access road and caught a taxi to a local climbing hill. We geared up again and did a small but very exposed via ferrata, followed by some rock climbing about 100’ up what was the easiest route on the cliff but despite being roped up it was one of the toughest things I’ve done. Traci made it look easy and the kids experienced varying degrees of success.
The climbing over, we enjoyed an outdoor cookout on a picnic table in a small village and were treated to cold drinks by the neighbor, an act of kindness I will remember. The Dolomites were a stunning, healthy, simple and wonderful adventure. I was fearful of a letdown from Africa but the kids absolutely loved it and I’m already yearning to return in the future for a week to 10 days.
We drove 2 hours to Venice and stayed in the luxury of the airport Courtyard Mariott, then were off to Greece via Budapest. Our traveling circus of baggage came back to bite us as we were charged the GDP of small African nation for the 50 kilos above what we were allowed.
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| The hike begins to Mt. Lagazuoi |
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| Looks like a perfectly good tram to me |
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| Daniele gearing up the kids |
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| We're cool... |
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| The fearless duo |
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| The first summit |
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| Lucky to have survived.. Hanging on the edge of a 3000' precipice. Thank goodness the kids are strong and worked as a team to save me. |
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| REALLY hungry for lunch after all that climbing |
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| Thank goodness dinner was only 3 hours later |
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| A mountain pass (Averau) successfully achieved |
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| Rifigio Passo Giau at the end of day 2 |
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| Only in the wonderful world of Halle do you skip down trails of loose rock |
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| Hands of dung |
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| The brats are still laughing |
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| Lucky man |
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| For Hayden the Dolomites were a truly life-changing experience. |
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