18 September 2011

Greece

 


We arrived in Athens without a hitch and with all of our luggage after a brief layover in Budapest, Hungary. Only saw the airport but enough to make the kids do a country report and add another country to the list!  It is interesting that we currently have an amount of luggage that if very skillfully packed creates 3 airport luggage carts full of luggage. As we have approximately three children, we are fortunate that the kids love to schlep these carts to and from the curb.
 
Athens is a big, hot, dirty, smoggy city with crazy drivers, graffiti and litter everywhere. Soon after our arrival, I broke down and smoked three cigarettes; not directly but solely from secondhand smoke. All that being said, the magic of the first view of the Acropolis, Parthenon, and the other ancient relics far outweighs the negatives. When in Africa we visited a coastal town called Lamu which was founded in the mid 1300’s.  Here you view ruins that date from over 2500 B.C.  I tried drawing a timeline for the kids to explain B.C. and A.D. and it was shocking to think of time as far before Christ as after his death.  We stayed at a quaint little hotel a few blocks from the Acropolis and enjoyed a great walk and dinner before retiring to our hotel.
Day 2 was devoted to touring the Acropolis and Parthenon, as well as spending several hours in the incredible Acropolis museum. We had a great guide named Catherine who is Greek but spent many years in the UK and she spoke flawless English. She was very pregnant and not at the same energy level as our gang but her knowledge and her kid friendliness were awesome. It was super-interesting to learn about the history of Athens. This place has just been a proverbial whipping post for its entire existence.  Greeks, Persians, Greeks, Persians, Turks, Greeks, Venetians, Spartans, Greeks, Turks, British, Germans (WWII), Turks and finally the Greeks. I’m sure that is not the correct order but you get the picture.  Throughout invasion after invasion the amazing relics were plundered and re-plundered and it is shocking that so much remains.  The British absolutely defaced the Parthenon and much of what would still remain is in the British Museum because the governor who looted it couldn’t afford to keep it as it cost him so much to ship it to Britain and the Brits now won't give it back.  To the victors go the spoils.
Day 3 we headed out of town to Corinth and its canal (which creates the Island of Peloponnese) and we visited the ruins of Mycenae (2500 B.C.+) which is where it was believed that King Agamemnon of the Iliad fame ruled. Unfortunately for the German guy who found the site in the late 1800’s and upon digging up a grave said “I have seen Agamemnon’s face”, it seems that modern archeologists have dated the site to about 400 years prior to the good king’s time.
We next ventured to the small port town of Nafplio which was the first capital of Greece around 1830.  There is a huge castle here called Palamidi which was built by the Venetians about 500 years ago.  You can drive up part way or take a famous walk up the 1000 steps.  We opted for the latter even though we were baking in the sun and it was about 100 degrees.  Kids were once again troopers.  If you can make a game out of any adventure for kids, they will forget about the difficulty.  In this case it was counting the steps with the promise of a swim and gelato afterwards. They could have done 10,000 steps. After a tour of the castle which was pretty open and the kids were able to run wild, we descended and they made their initial foray into the Aegean Sea.
Day 4 we returned to Athens after a stop at Epidarus and its famous amphitheater. This holds about 14,500 people and the acoustics are phenomenal.  We next drove past Athens to Marathon and the start of the famous journey.  After a victorious battle with the Persians, the soldier and runner Pelipides ran 26 miles in full armor to Athens to let the people know that the Athenians were victorious.  He then promptly dropped dead.  We enjoyed a brief race from the start of the Olympic marathon race (Hayden won) and then visited the Marathon graveyard where the 192 soldiers who died in the battle are entombed. Kids were roasting so as savvy parents we drove to the beach at Marathon and all had a swim with about 5,000 of our best Greek friends.  Beautiful water, very alkaline and a person (especially one like me) floats like a bobber.
Day 5 we said a very early goodbye to Athens and laughably carried our ginormous load of luggage onto a high speed ferry destined for the Cycladic Islands, and our next destination Santorini.  This was a huge catamaran about 10x the size of the Victoria Clipper and it must have cruised at about 40 knots.  A wonderful 5 hours to just read and relax.
Santorini was absolutely stunning.  Santorini is essentially what remains of an enormous volcanic explosion about 3,600 years ago. This created the caldera (the surviving perimeter of the volcano) and the giant central lagoon that is about 8 x 4 miles.  The caldera consists of almost 1000 foot cliffs on 3 three sides. The villages are all situated on this surviving perimeter and will be enjoyed for generations to come or at least until the next earthquake when many will likely topple to the lagoon.  We had a super cool cave hotel in a village called Ia which is at the northern tip of the main crescent shaped island.
We focused on starting “road school” and in the afternoons did a little exploring and a lot of swimming and hiking.  At the bottom of the cliff our hotel was perched on, there was a small swimming area with some great cliffs for jumping and diving. A small island called St. Nicolas with about a 20’ leap off the base of an old lighthouse provided for several incredibly fun afternoons.
After an incredible short week, we bid adieu to Santorini and caught a small ferry to Ios, a much smaller and quieter island about 20 miles north of Santorini. This morning was a much focused, organized morning of homework. In fact my scholars are studying now so I am able to write. We are looking forward to mornings of studying and afternoons of adventures in search of the perfect cliffs.


Professional schleppers
 
View of the Acropolis (the mountaintop) and the Parthenon (the building)
 
The Parthenon and young gods and goddesses hurtling lightning bolts
 

Corinth Canal (bunging jumping available...all declined)


The ruins of Mycenae and the Lions Gate (circa 2500 B.C.)



Nafplio.  Bottom of the 1000 steps to the Palamidi Castle


Nafplio.  Top of the 1000 steps to the Palamidi Castle


Nafplio.  First swim in the Mediterranean


Gelato.  Sure to get a smile and a small reward for a big climb


Theater at Epidarus


Marathon and the official start of the mother of all marathons


Sprinting the first .1 of the 26.2 miles



Victorious Hayden and his olive wreath reward


Ferry to Santorini. 
 
Ia from the water


Looking down to the sea and the kids on the porch of our hotel room


Sydney with some good "air sense"


I tried to save Hayden
Syd flipping out


Sydney and Hayden


Halle getting her courage up for the 20' jump
and receiving a congratulatory high 5 from her big sister


Halle showing Traci the proper technique
 

15 September 2011

Dolomites, Italy

Playing a little catch up here so please forgive.  That is a sign that as much as I truly love writing, blogging, embellishing, etc., I was too busy enjoying other activities.  The Dolomites were an amazing family adventure and just what the doctor (that would be Traci) ordered for some great family exercise and adventure.  Other than not receiving or luggage for 2 days (Traci not for 4) and having to buy some warm clothes, it was a fabulous adventure. After a very easy transition day in Corvara (high on the list of places I want to return to in any season), we set off on a short, 30 minute drive to our first hike.  We arrived at a tram station that headed pretty much straight up a huge cliff about 2500 feet above us.  I thought we were going to head up the tram and enjoy a lovely hilltop hike.  I jokingly asked Sydney if she’d rather hike or take the lift and she fully expectantly said “hike” and so it was to be.  We enjoyed an easy hike for about 45 minutes to the base of the cliff and then the harnesses, helmets and headlamps came out.   But first a bit of history through my likely warped lens….

In this area of northeast Italy, WWI the Austrians fought against the Italians.  The Italians joined what in hindsight was the winning side of the war because they were promised some sweet mountain territory in the area that is currently the Dolomites.  Perhaps they envisioned the 1956 Olympics in Cortina but I doubt it.  So the Italians and the Austrians rushed to the hills and had to hunker down and defend the incredibly steep, difficult mountain passes.  They quickly fought to a draw as once an army had the high ground it was almost impossible to penetrate. In addition the winters were abominable.  As the war progressed they realized that the only way to get through was to win the high ground or to go through it.  So they dug an amazing network of tunnels and trails through and on the sides of these vast cliffs (think Yosemite X 20).  To aid them in getting heavy equipment up the hills they added steel cables or ropes to the trails and the world’s first “via ferrata” (Italian for iron road) were established.  After the war the steepest trails and tunnels (places where if you fall you die) were outfitted with steel ladders and cables that were drilled and set deep in the rock by the Italian Alpine Club.  So you can be a big wimp and afraid of heights like your humble author but all you do is wear a harness and on that harness you have attached a couple of 3’ ropes with carabineers (climbing clips) and you hike along clipped to the cable until you come to a big eyebolt that supports the cable.  You then hold on to the cable, unclip one, move it past the bolt and reclip it, then hold on, move the second above the eyebolt, and continue on to the next eyebolt.  Rinse and repeat.  You are safe from falling 100% of the time as you are always clipped but your mind doesn’t quite comprehend this, at least mine doesn’t, nor did Traci’s nor did Sydney’s. 
These via ferrata are now everywhere and in between them are miles of beautiful hikes and also interspersed are a variety of rifugio (refuges) which are restaurants which also offer boarding in simple rooms or dormitories.  This is also the area where the Sylvester Stallone movie “Cliffhanger” was filmed. 

So all geared up we began our first via ferrata. We hiked along some very exposed trails that were about 4 feet wide with about a 300’ drop. We then entered a tunnel that zigged and zagged up and inside the mountain for about 1500’. Super steep and slippery with many 24”steps. Kids were very impressive. I thought the tunnel must have been dug by midgets or enslaved children and was thankful I had a hard hat. We came out on top and hiked across some very hairy exposures. Sydney wasn’t particularly pleased. We had two Italian brothers who were guiding us that first day, Daniela and Enrico Geremia, and they stood on the edges without being hooked up and helped the kids. They were as comfortable standing 6” away from the edge of a 1000’ cliff as I’d be on a sidewalk. Still scares me to think about it.

So we bagged our first peak, Mt. Lagazuoi, which was about 9000’.We stayed at the Rifugio Lagazuoi at the peak and it was just a real treat to be exhilarated, exhausted, and enjoying good food and simple lodging. Traci and I were both super proud of all the kids. It was a great workout for us and I can’t imagine how tough it must have been for their shorter legs.

The following day we hiked down an easier route and then hiked a fairly easy 4 or 5 hours through a couple mountain passes to another Rifugio called Passo Giau.Next day was a bit harder climbing several more difficult passes (but no via ferrata) to our final Rifugio, called Citta’Di Fiume.The kids were super energized and on the way down from a high pass they decided to play the “follow dad’s footsteps” game.  I was having a blast making them try to follow huge footsteps, doing stupid little dances, etc.  At one point we were traversing a small cattle farm and I tried to get fancy and jump over a small ravine in between some large cow pies.  Instead I slipped and instantly planted both forearms and hands in the mud and dung and mess.  Full belly laughs by Traci and all the kids.  I didn’t think it was particularly humorous.

So we made it to our rifugio and I really enjoyed cleaning up. This rifugio was at the base of the spectacular Mt. Pelmo, and all of the kids spent about 4 hours attempting to dam the small creek that ran nearby.  Ah the small things in life.  The manager at the rifugio washed a load of laundry for us and will forever be in my heart for not forcing me to deal with my feeble attempts at hand washing.

Our last day we hiked down to the local access road and caught a taxi to a local climbing hill.  We geared up again and did a small but very exposed via ferrata, followed by some rock climbing about 100’ up what was the easiest route on the cliff but despite being roped up it was one of the toughest things I’ve done.  Traci made it look easy and the kids experienced varying degrees of success.

The climbing over, we enjoyed an outdoor cookout on a picnic table in a small village and were treated to cold drinks by the neighbor, an act of kindness I will remember.  The Dolomites were a stunning, healthy, simple and wonderful adventure.  I was fearful of a letdown from Africa but the kids absolutely loved it and I’m already yearning to return in the future for a week to 10 days.

We drove 2 hours to Venice and stayed in the luxury of the airport Courtyard Mariott, then were off to Greece via Budapest.  Our traveling circus of baggage came back to bite us as we were charged the GDP of small African nation for the 50 kilos above what we were allowed.

The hike begins to Mt. Lagazuoi
Looks like a perfectly good tram to me


Daniele gearing up the kids
We're cool...


The fearless duo


The first summit
Lucky to have survived.. Hanging on the edge of a 3000' precipice. Thank goodness the kids are strong and worked as a team to save me.


REALLY hungry for lunch after all that climbing
Thank goodness dinner was only 3 hours later
A mountain pass (Averau) successfully achieved
Rifigio Passo Giau at the end of day 2



Only in the wonderful world of Halle do you skip down trails of loose rock


Hands of dung
The brats are still laughing
 

Carnage at the end of day 3
Young engineers at work damming the local creek
Note to our parents...they each have two ropes attached and they are also roped to our guide Enrico who is also attached.  Triple safety system...Obviously stellar parenting.
 

Traci easily reaching the top of the climbing route
Traci hanging out.  She hates heights and that is definitely a forced smile
Lucky man
For Hayden the Dolomites were a truly life-changing experience.
 

04 September 2011

Transition Time

Leaving Africa was hard.  It is truly a unique place in the world given the largeness and uniqueness of everything.  Sydney, our biggest dissenter against our plans for the year, cried her sweet little heart out a few hours before leaving.  To think that she did the same thing right before we left Seattle made me quickly jump to the conclusion that she had the time of her life in Africa and didn't want to leave (which I think is true) but it is as true that she is such a sweet, sensitive girl and after 7 weeks of stability and being ably guided the thought of yet another continent and it's unknowns were a little overwhelming.  We wanted to see Africa first in our trip, to be sure the kids were bought in to the idea of traveling around the world.  Boy did Africa deliver on this front.  There's the old saying that to be successful in any endeavor one should under promise and over deliver.  You can never go wrong in life if you follow that rule and I hope that we didn't set expectations too high at the beginning of our trip.  Our entire itinerary in Africa was prearranged and we didn't have to make too many decisions outside of narrowing food and beverage choices each day.  I made one phone call in 7 weeks.  Very different.  Moving forward we will be in more countries for smaller periods of time,  we will be working with different guides or self-guiding in each location, and we'll be focusing more time and attention on "road schooling."  Leaving Africa was a big milestone.  We're about 1/6th thru our year and now the real adventure begins.   

We enjoyed a great final day in Nairobi, with Traci and the kids getting haircuts while I did some needed shopping.  We all had a very tearful farewell with Nella and James and then were off on a 2 hour drive thru the hell of Nairobi traffic to the airport.  26 km in 2 hours.  For those young kids in the audience that is 13 kilometers/hour or about 8 miles per hour.  Joining the mayhem we allowed the required 2 hours and we made our flight with plenty of time.

East Africa to central Europe is only a one hour time zone change from PST so everyone was tired and all slept at funny angles in the small seats that really didn't lean back too much. Not to complain too much though as we were all in a row for the first time and I had a sweet Halle head sleeping on my arm for about 6 hours. We landed at Charles De Gualle airport in Paris and only made our connecting flight to Venice thanks to good hustle from the kids and a very kind Air France representative. Airport security in Europe is as tight as it is in the US. In Africa they do their best. I boarded the flight in Nairobi behind a muslim cleric and what I assumed were his three heavily veiled wives. He had a very large locking carry on bag. Glad I'm not like Juan Williams and won't get fired or censored but they still made me a little nervous. Compare that with Traci having an apple and our only bottle of sunscreen taken in Paris (screened twice even though we were on a connecting flight that was already screened) I thought a few times that if I ruled the world things would work a little differently. All grandparents and children 12 and under head right over here to this high speed line and you can keep those shoes on! So again I digress.

We had a great flight to Venice, clear the entire way over the Alps. Only mishap is that our 9 bags didn't show up. We're 3 hours north now in a tiny mountain hamlet and were promised them yesterday, and now tomorrow morning. We can't go hiking without our gear and its only our yearly belongings and educational materials but other than that it shouldn't be a big deal to replace. Yikes. Hope it isn't Allah's revenge for my non peaceful thoughts. We are planning on downsizing to 6 bags but had hoped to ship some stuff back from the modern postal system in Europe.

The Dolomites are stunningly beautiful. The sheerness and scale of the mountains are incredible. I visited here with my good friend Denis Atam over 20 years ago when working for Microsoft in Munich and it was such an eye opener that I thought the whole family would enjoy it on this trip, not to mention getting some great extended exercise for a few consecutive days. The drive from Venice took about 3 hours. The Italian roads are incredible, from the super highways to the narrow mountain roads. Everything is incredibly green and clean.

Yesterday we arrived mid afternoon, took a brief nap, then walked the village of Corvara in the Alta Badia region. Very Whistleresque but smaller and uncrowded with the mountains being even closer and more sheer. Kids enjoyed a few rounds of bungee jumping (above a trampoline not off a bridge) and we enjoyed the warm sunshine and stunning views. The kids enjoyed their first gelato and a pizza dinner and were in heaven.

Hopefully our bags will arrive this morning and we'll be off the grid for 3-4 days and will return with great tales of climbing and hiking. If the bags don't arrive we won't suffer too hard in this little slice of paradise.



Traci and the kids waiting to board the plane at Nairobi airport


African airport security.  Just walk on with those homemade bows and arrows sir.  As long as they are wood they don't pose a threat (try telling that to Hayden when he is shooting at his sisters). 


First gelato


Village of Corvara


Getting some air (author's note...photo taken from sunny porch of a bar)
 

29 August 2011

Lupita Island, Lake Tanganyika, Tanzania


Day 4 found us awaiting quick 30 minute flight to our final African destinatioin, Lapita Island on Lake Tanganyika.There were some logistical issues and since the area is so remote it was tough getting a plane in on short notice so we opted for a 5 hour drive.Great decision.The roads weren’t bad (all dirt mind you) and we went through some really interesting country, villages and geologic features.The kids loved ‘catching air’ inside the car on some of the mounds for culverts or bridges.We stopped at a roadside restaurant (old charcoal grill in the parking lot) and had these incredible egg and french fry omelets.We arrived late yesterday afternoon and this place is really special.Lake Tanganyika is the second deepest lake in the world and the longest lake in Africa. It is crystal clear like Tahoe and you can drink the water.Such a contrast to have so much fresh water in one place when the getting fresh water is the biggest daily chore for most Africans.Tom bought this small island 5 years ago and it is about as remote as you can get in Tanzania.

So I used to be quite an athlete, or so I thought, being able to do a backflip from about 10’ off our boathouse at our former home. I used to even add a 180 degree twist. So I’m about 10’ up on the edge of this boat that is bobbing on the swells of this lake that is really more like an ocean. We’re out for sundowners (sunset drinks) and swimming from this 46’ boat. So after completing one backflip and ceremoniously enjoying an adult beverage, I am encouraged by our hosts and my kids to add the twist. No problem. No problem that is until I forget the flip part and instead do a twisting back flop that perfectly, flatly aligns 100% of my back and legs with the lake. In the words of my friend Spook…Owie Owie Owie! Thankfully there was nothing seriously hurt other than my pride. To add insult to injury I had several comments that I was lucky to have had the flop padded by my back hair.
Tanganyika is the deepest in Africa (4,820 feet), second deepest in the world, is 420 miles long by 30 miles wide, and has enough fresh water to cover North America to a depth of 2 feet. It also has huge swells like the ocean and it is very strange as it is so big you want to taste the salt but it just isn’t there! It is also has a surface temperature of about 80 degrees and it only varies a few degrees with the seasons. Lupita Island is amazing. We had the good fortune (do you recall my Swahili name meaning the lucky one?) of having this place to ourselves for the visit. There are 11 guest “huts” and a huge pool, dining area, etc. There is also a games room where the kids have become demons at foosball and ping pong. The activities are endless. We kayaked around the island (about 45 minutes). Halle is my kayak buddy and we always seem to get the best of those who start water fights. We’ve gone snorkeling to view the thousands of colorful native fish. Sydney and Hayden are machines and are doing some relatively deep dives. Halle has been really sweet and trying hard but has had some equipment issues that have been challenging. Today Traci and I went scuba diving. We only went for about 30 minutes and were only about 40’ deep and it was a great refresher as Traci hadn’t been for 20 years and I hadn’t been for about 13. No currents, clear water, great instructor. While we dived the kids snorkeled on the surface. I let Sydney and Hayden use my breather after resurfacing and Sydney is hooked and really wants to get certified. That will have to wait for spring but she would love to learn and we should find a few suitable places!

We enjoyed a great day at the beach doing more snorkeling, rock jumping and waterskiing (why did we come to Africa?). Our second to last day, it was just what we needed. The last day we visited a local fishing village, enjoyed the pool and were treated to a really cool dinner treat. The local choir from the Roman Catholic church came by and we enjoyed a magical set of songs and a few dances together. We were very sad to pack up and leave Lupita. All places have been special and perhaps because it was last but it was difficult to say goodbye.  

We took another charter to Kilamanjaro airport, once again only catching sneaks of the famous mountain.  Then it was back to Nairobi for a day of packing, downsizing, shipping of some gear.  Next up was a 2 hour drive across the 15 miles to the airport, an 8 hour red-eye flight to Paris leaving at 10:30 then a 2 hour flight to venice and a 3-4 hour car drive to the Dolomites.  We were ready for the upcoming exercise.  These multiday transitions aren't quite as glamorous as the destinations!
 
Stopping for potato omelettes for lunch on the drive from Katavi to Lupita Island


Lupita Island


Sydney doesn't have any issues in jumping from high places


Kids get in to snorkel while Traci and I prepare to scuba dive



Scuba Master Chris and his boat, along with Weis, one of Lupita's managers
Hayden first in Tanzania with local paddle fishing boat in background


How to look completely stupid in a medium vest that won't zip


Traci getting it done


2 new best friends at the fishing village


On the hike to the fishing village


Locally made bricks.  The women carry the dried bricks (3 of them) back to the village on their heads.  Lightweight



Nella showing the kids the pictures on her camera's LCD screen.  They love pictures!