Auf Wiedersehen Austria

Oh to have to depart such an incredible part of the world! Imagine the perfect place for each member of your family, surrounded by good friends, incredible scenery, and a fabulous lifestyle!  But family, friends, the dog, schools at home, not to mention the lure of the East and remaining adventures, await. It is time to move on, but not before reflecting on how happy we have been for our decision to stay in St. Anton for the winter. Have I mentioned that I think I'm lucky? We had great snow (as much as they've had in several decades), great accommodations (couldn't have found a better place, especially given the fabulous owners and their kids), great skiing experiences (racing, guides, deep and light powder, challenging steeps, terrain parks, fabulous sunny days, après ski with great friends, etc.) and an incredibly supportive community. Maybe it is an optimistic attitude but for whatever reason our experience has far exceeded high expectations.

So I think I mentioned in a previous post how proud I was of our kid's homeschooling efforts? Well let's just say that they've enjoyed an extended winter break. Since the 2nd week of February we've been blessed (truly) with visitors and have been incredibly, delightfully busy with great friends. First off came my incredible college friend and roommate Joe Raver and his wife Anne and their boys Robert (11) and Thomas (8).  Hailing from Indiana, but temporarily working and living in Zurich, they are beginning skiers (fyi...skiing sucks in Indiana) but nonetheless made a valiant effort. We pushed and prodded them, and didn't keep quite as tight a reign on their boys when entrusted with them during one morning's skiing. Thomas, not quite able to stop, did a way-too fast snowplow down a steep icy slope into a snow bank, whereupon he double-ejected and flipped into a metal signpost, managing to tear some ligaments in his foot (through his ski boot). Joe and Anne returned to Zurich with Thomas in a soft boot cast.  Rumor has it that Thomas is up and about, and we have yet to hear from their attorney so all bodes well.

Exit the Ravers and enter the Chapmans. 5 exuberant individuals and Oprah, their one of a kind Labrador. Living in Luxembourg, they enjoyed what was supposed to be a leisurely 6 hour drive in 9.5 hours. Early the next morning, I informed them that we were confiscating their car, forcing them to join us for a ski race in a village 30 miles east. Ever the troopers, they willingly obliged and cheered on the Janssen kids to some strong performances. After the races, on our way down the mountain, as we approached the terrain park, our two families experienced a life changing moment, also known as "THE BIG AIR BAG". The big air bag is just that, similar to what emergency personnel use to catch suicidal leapers from tall buildings. Some genius thought that this could be placed after a huge ski jump. Brilliant. Everyone's trepidation was alleviated by Greg Chapman unhesitatingly leading the charge, and showing all that it was as dangerous as a pillow fight. All of the kids (including Traci and me) subsequently threw ourselves into oblivion. It was a very strange feeling to go so fast towards such a large jump and get so much air (regardless if one is 46 or if one is 8) and all cherished the experience. I posted a video which I think does a nice job of capturing the moment.  While the footage may be comical, the commentary by Greg and Traci is classic.  Oh to be so loved!  Soon thereafter Greg and I enjoyed an incredible day of guided skiing and lucked into about 12" of the lightest champagne powder imaginable. We were first off the top of the highest mountain here called Valluga, at 9222 feet.  The run is one of the most famous in the Alps. The skiing routes from the top are limited, and all involve skiing or traversing across an exposed slope of about 35 degrees. If you get caught in an avalanche or fall on the ice, you will enjoy a deadly slide over a cliff of several hundred feet.  So you don’t go when it is icy or when it could slide.  Whenever you care or dare to ski it, you must have a professional (aka not Brian Janssen) guide with you who will sign off and take responsibility for you. With that being said, if you don't think about it, and are an advanced intermediate skier, it is never be a problem (with the exception of each member of the Raver family). So Greg and I and our guide Georg did this for the first time and thankfully it was foggy. We slid and side-stepped down a ridge. Suddenly Greg started to fall backwards towards what surely must be his end. I grabbed his jacket and laughed as he would have fallen about 18" between fluffy snowdrifts about 50' from the danger zone. Still an incredible mind game and we were rewarded with some of the best runs of the year. We enjoyed an incredible day of long, hard hikes and deep, untracked powder.

Enter Jay and Isabella Buck. Jay and Isabella bring an incomparable level of energy and laughter to any environment. As with the Ravers, we thought that the best cure for their jet lag would be to subject them to 3 runs of rodeling (sledding). It was such a blast: parents telling the kids not to wipe each other out then every parent doing just that, with the kids quickly getting even.  There was more carnage and bodily damage in those immediate two hours than occurred during the remainder of the week, or well almost. As the Chapman's week was nearing an end, we decided to take them to the world famous Moosewirt (Moose Bar) for a tiny bit of Apres Ski. Greg wasn't skiing, so he decided to snowshoe and join his wife Erin, Traci, Jay and me at the establishment. After what was assuredly a small number of minutes, we knew that as responsible parents we had to get home to our children so as not to interrupt their studies and fix them a healthy dinner. Being in a hurry, with all on skis except Greg with snowshoes (and having about a half mile to ski to a taxi), I begged Greg to trust me and hop on my back and I would carry his very slightly less than 200 lb. frame down the bunny hill on my back. He reluctantly obliged, and the instant he hopped on my back, one of my ski boots broke, and with a slide off my back of no more than 6", he somehow managed to sprain his ankle. So much for his plans for the Paris Marathon in April.  I like to think that with his being in such feeble condition, that I saved him from a far more serious injury in the near future, and that the marathon could have been deadly.  I’m not sure that he agrees but everyone has their issues. 

So the Chapmans limped back to Luxembourg, comforted that they would have a second chance to tame St. Anton in early April.  Isabella was able to enjoy a couple of days of Austrian gate training with the Janssen kids.  Jay was able to ski the Valluga with me, but this, coupled with several long hikes, gave him such severe blisters that he was unable to ski his last day.  The Janssens (mostly me) were thus 3 for 3 in sending home injured warriors, and I'd hazard to guess that future visitors will not be quite so trusting as the word spreads.

Being on the road for 7 months, it was absolutely delightful to have such great friends visit us.  The kids were all fabulous and had a blast together.  I personally loved having three of my greatest male buddies here in succession, and I know Traci really enjoyed the ladies, the men and the kids.  Thanks guys, you filled a void that only in hindsight did I realize was so huge.

After the departure of our guests, our final days were spent enjoying some great spring skiing.  Halle was a little under the weather but the rest of the family, ably guided by Georg, had their wits scared out of them with yet another Valluga descent; with yet again the reward being a fabulous (and last) powder run (see the second video).  The kids had their last race, and we were sad to say goodbye to their coaches and the wonderful inclusive parents of team Pettneu.  Traci and I enjoyed one last skin up to Gampen peak.  It was about our 30^th trek of the season and our 86^th day skiing.  That’s a good season! 

We’re off to Turkey on March 6, followed by several weeks in India and Nepal before meeting family in Thailand.  We are in for some serious culture and weather shock, but each of us is ready, willing and able for the next stage of our adventure! 

The first video below is the "BIGAIRBAG."  Be sure to have your volume turned up as that is the comical part. 

The below video is our final powder run of the year off the infamous Valluga. Hayden, Sydney, then Traci. At the end of the video, you can see the west face of Valluga.  You traverse the ridge then ski down the face that is in the sun.



Sydney with her second podium pinnacle for Giant Slalom in St. Anton

Hayden and coach Bruno.  Incredible skier and a great coach



Team Pettneu with coaches Jorg and Bruno



Halle with a strong 4th place finish.  Note the girl in 1st holding a ski, thus being sponsored at age 8.  I think that if Halle had GS skis and a dad that would wax them properly the finish would have been very different.  She was less than a second from first in a 54 second race, and is a demon down the hill.



The increble owners of "Haus Pinchbeck" where we are staying.  Peter and Liz Pinchbeck.  Thank you for your endless generosity!

Our troop with the Pinchbeck's kids Jemima and James (and their one of a kind wonder dog Max)




Joe Raver...He's tall but excessively skinny with a dangerously light BMI



Joe and Anne.  The only thing less becoming than a bald head is a mop of grey.  He's overmarried as well.



Coach Jorg warms up Sydney's legs



Sydney en route to a strong 3rd place finish in Zams.  What a set up for the turn!

Hayden.  I wish I could carve like he does.



Halle keeping it tight!  She has zero fear...



as shown by her launch into the bigairbag.  Despite the backwards lean she has amazing air presence and landed perfectly flat every time.

Hayden goes big while Greg Chapman gawks enviously at the courage required to get such big air



Sydney at the apex of her jump



Traci not to be outdone.  Your eyes don't deceive you.  That is not Syd wearing her mom's coat (Traci should have thought of that...it would have fooled me).  She was so scared yet she sucked it up and let herself launch after a lot of spousal pressure.  We're still very happily married.

Greg "salmon pants" Chapman and uber-guide Georg on our first Valluga descent. Notice the yellow warning sign and the picture of the person tumbling off a cliff. Very reasssuring. Thank goodness for the fog.

Since we have the Bucks and Chapmans together, why not start off with a 40 degree warm up run down a rocky chute under Schindlergrafbahn that threatened the Chapman's marriage (you had to climb through a safety net to access)?  Two things stand out:   Halle being the first kid and your humble photographer being the only one at the bottom ready to catch any sliders.  Notice Greg looking to Halle for some pointers.  Quality parenting yet again.

Greg Chapman and Jay Buck before their lesson from the Rodelmaster



Jay Buck on our first hike/climb with guide Georg.  I was being a good friend and going slower than my usual slow pace.  That is called a good wingman Jay.  Jay's knees are shredded so he was a total trooper.



From the previous picture, I turned 90 degrees left and took this photo. Almost indiscernable in the distance, just before the shadow, is our guide Georg.  He obviously doesn't like to wait.



Jay enjoyed the fruits of his hiking labors.  The peak between his poles is where Georg is standing in the previous picture.

Now that is a real smile! Jay rewarded for his big day with a little apres ski at the Moosewirt, undoubtedly the world's craziest apres ski bar.

Sydney jumping over the road tunnel between Stuben and Zurs.



Boy BFFs Hayden and Sam Chapman at the top of the Madloch Chair



Skiing "the needle" between Zurs and Stuben.  This was very steep and about 2000 vertical feet, which is why Jay, Greg and I were positioned should we need to catch a sliding skier.  Not sure if you can see the snowballs that are threatening the photographer.  I was nervous to take the kids here.  The kids didn't think twice about it.  Halle is telling Greg to keep his weight and hands forward and Greg is saying "like this?"



The kids and Erin at the bottom of the needle. I love this picture



More fine parenting.  The entrance to the famous Stierloch run in Zurs.  Keeping the local ski tuners in business.

Isabella Buck joins the crew in the incredibly picturesque village of Lech



Traci, Halle and Isabella with a little apres ski dancing to a live band



More fine parenting with the introduction to arm wrestling, and Isabella surprises Hayden in their first match



but Hayden gets his revenge.

Jay and Traci in the world famous "Ice Bar" in Lech.  Super cool, enormous building made entirely of ice.



Sydney and Isabella

At the "Schishow" which is a skiing, jumping, fireworks performance every Wednesday night



Greg and Erin Chapman

Jay Buck



One of our last skins up to Gampen



With Hayden at the "Rodel Alm" or toboggan restaurant



With Hayden and Sydney at the top of Valluga




Sydney, Hayden and Georg waiting for Brian and Traci on the traverse down Valluga.  Hayden is standing where Greg Chapman thought he was going to fall and die.  Down to the right is a pretty mind boggling exposure.

l-r Erin Chapman, Traci, Jay Buck, Isabella Buck, Sydney, Brian, Mackenzie Chapman, Ben Chapman, Halle, Sam Chapman, Hayden and Greg Chapman

The need for speed

In June, 1914, the heir to the Austrian throne, Archduke Franz Ferdinand, was assassinated in Sarajevo.  This was the spark that started the Great War or what is now referred to as World War I.   Following this war and World War II, many felt that there would never be a World War III.  I’m not too sure.  I think the Austrians might try to start WWIII, all because of some well-meaning but misunderstood American children. 

The Janssen kids continue to improve on their already formidable skiing skills.  The same cannot be said for their father, but that's not important.  In December we tried valiantly to enroll them in the local St. Anton racing program, only to be repeatedly rebuffed because they aren’t in school here, we haven’t lived here for three years, their eyes aren’t blue enough, blah blah blah.  We thought we were out of luck with race training, but then a ski guide referred me to the racing team at the nearby (5 miles) village of Pettneu.  They have a great skiing program, having produced Austrian champions Mario and Michael Matt, both stars on the current world cup circuit.  This local club has welcomed our kids in their training sessions (3-4 times/week here in St. Anton) and we were recently invited to their first race at their local hill.   The only negative about Pettneu is that their local resort is in bankruptcy, so they held their first race on a hill under the non-functioning gondola.   So whilst my bride was chatting away with girlfriends in Paris, I tried to get the kids there on time (unsuccessfully).   After a late arrival, we stressfully hiked about 500 feet up the hill (picture kids effortlessly climbing on top of the snow while their dad with 2 pair of skis repeatedly breaks through the snow and sinks in to his waist).  Flustered, with no practice or familiarity with the course, the Janssen kids were nonetheless ready.  Halle set the tone.  To the ohs and ahs of the audience, she laid down a blistering run.  Hayden followed, never to be outdone, silencing and tantalizing the crowd with his supernatural carving ability.   Syd and I then had to hike another 500’ up to the big kid course.  Sydney laid down such a fast run compared to the other girls in her age group that I wanted to bury my head in the snow in shameful pride, whilst the local parents sneered at the vile newcomer.  Unfortunately, about 20 skiers later I had to follow her, being a family event and all.  Warmed by an obligatory shot of schnapps from the starter, and equipped with a backpack full of food and gear, I muddled my way down the course, making not myself, my children, nor my country proud.  Sydney thought she skied horribly, having nearly fallen after absorbing an indiscernible cow path at high speed.  She still managed to smoke me by 2 seconds, even with my approximately 150lb weight advantage.  Each Janssen kid handily won their age group, while their dad settled for 4^th place in the “old men that didn’t fall” division (I think there were 5 of us and the guy in 5^th lost a ski).  The trophy presentation was great.  I was beaming, as were each of the kids.  Halle took the podium and raised her trophy high.  There was some mumbling and a few gratuitous looks.  Hayden repeated this, and when the name Janssen was announced this second time, the grumbling and unwelcome stares and murmurs increased.    I turned my coat inside out, took off my hat, and put on sunglasses but when Sydney also won gold to go 3 for 3 the crowd was near riotous.  "Burn them!" I thought I heard.  Thankful to not have 4 children, we grabbed our trophies (even lame-o dad got one, with a bonus Homer Simpson-esque doughnut) and stealthily escaped the brewing mob.  I double check the door locks each night, and have hired additional security detail both on and off the slopes but if we somehow go missing, the culprits are probably Pettneu ski team parents.

The adrenaline rush from the speed of skiing should be more than adequate for most, yet our apartment is very close to a high-speed sledding run so we have had numerous occasions to further tempt fate and injury.  Rodel is the German word for toboggan.  The rodel is more like a luge than the classic American flexible flyer of my youth.  After having to pay an $80m personal injury award to John Edwards for a broken leg, the flexible flyer company went bankrupt in 1979 but the basics of the metal on snow design have been retained by the rodel, and here with skiing and with sledding, all is truly at your own risk.  The rodel has two curled wooden sled rails onto which are screwed metal slats or rails.  You sit on top of a webbed seat strung above the rails.  Basically a little box sled that goes really, really fast.  The course is about 3 miles long and groomed nightly.  You control the sled by digging in your heels to stop or if you dig in one more than the other, that is the direction you turn.  Kids love it while an adult spine that is well into its 5^th decade is good for no more than two runs.   Sledding is an amazing incentive for schoolwork or skiing stamina.  Thankfully there have been no major incidents but with the onslaught of colder weather the frequency of sledding has increased.

In the last post I waxed about global warming and specifically the lack thereof.  Well it stopped snowing a few weeks ago and as additional proof that the world is getting colder we have been hammered by the “Siberian Express”.  It’s been about 10-20 below (F) for a good chunk of the past few weeks.  Still it has been beautiful to get out and enjoy the clear skies and the chalky groomers. 

The kids do race training about 3 days each week from 2-4 and all are enjoying it and are with some great coaches and kids.  That unfortunately has given Traci the opportunity to want to go skinning every second day instead of every 3^rd or 4^th.  For those non-skiers, skinning or alpine touring is where you put on sticky strips called skins on the bottom of your skis and you use your skis to climb UP the hill.  Yep that still sounds wrong to me too.    Once at your destination you remove them, clamp down your bindings and ski down.  Why a person would want to do that after real skiing, I don’t know why, but who am I to question?  I love chairlifts, and unlike my wife, have never met a lift I didn’t like.  Be it a T-bar, poma, chairlift, gondola, cable car or helicopter I think that any non-self powered lifting device is wonderful.  In fact, the pace of technology with lifts continues to be a marvel.  Many of the new lifts here have heated seats.  They use solar panels on the top of gondolas and batteries on the chairlifts.  The Austrians are so clever.  Thank you Dr. Dopplemayer.

Despite earlier protests about self-powered ascents, occasionally I am a glutton for punishment and recently hired a guide to safely explore some of the surrounding terrain that is only accessbile by touring.  We climbed for about an hour up a 40 degree slope to a small gap in the rocks at the top of a nearby ridge.  It was so steep that I had to take off my skis and climb the last 100’ or so with my skis off and using them as a sideways brace dug in the snow above my head to help pull myself up the slope.  We then side-stepped our way through a rock minefield to a lovely 2000’ vertical powder run.  This was followed by a 2 hour hike to a second  ridge at another ski area.  As we neared the top, we passed a group British guys who had the same idea.  One fairly young guy, gasping for breath at about 8,000', loudly complained to his guide "you forget I sit at a desk all day!"  Everyone around thought that was just hilarious, except his guide who blithely replied  "Ja...Velcome to my office hah hah hah!"   Classic.  Our descent was down super steep slopes, past 4 mountain goats, over a road tunnel built by the Polish POW’s in WWII, down to another village and then 3 lifts later I was back in St. Anton watching the kids train.  This place is just enormous, and we haven’t and won’t see most of it. 

Over the past month we’ve also had a couple of fun spectator events.  We traveled the 3^rd weekend of January to Kitzbuhel,  Austria and watched the slalom and the world famous Hahnenkamm downhill race.  This is one of the most treacherous downhill courses on the world cup circuit.  Unfortunately it was snowing and foggy so they cut out the top 1/3 of the course for safety, but still it was incredible to see how fast these guys go in person.  We saw Bode Miller and Ted Ligety and did our best to yell and scream and wave Old Glory but we were a drop in a bucket of Austrian Red.  This is the Austrian’s equivalent of the Super Bowl, and it was great to see 50,000 skiing fanatics.  In addition we watched a local race called the “hutten rallye” or “hut rally” which is a no rules ski-cross/Chinese downhill tournament where groups of 4-6 skiers start and ski a steep fast downhill type course that happens to go through or over a dozen or so huts on the mountainside.   

We were joined for 3 days recently by the incomparable Nella Nencini, our guide from Kenya.  It was great to see her again after spending most of 7 weeks together in Africa this summer.  Nella grew up skiing at Tahoe so despite many years in Africa, she still knows how to get down a hill.  She could probably qualify for the Kenyan Winter Olympic team.   Thanks Nella for your friendship, your easy smiles, for your infinite patience reviewing thousands of pictures of our safaris with the kids, and for not getting too mad at me when I took you on a heinously steep icy “river run” which resulted in your spending a few unplanned minutes wrestling a bushJ!

We’re looking forward to some visitors over the next few weeks.  My best friend from college, Joe Raver, is working in Zurich for several years and he and his wife Anne and two boys are here this week, followed by an overlap of the Jay Buck family and the Chapman family.   We head east, starting in Turkey, on March 6th.  We all hate to think of leaving here but as a fellow world traveler recently mentioned….”get out of those lederhosen and get moving!”  This has been such a great spot for our family.  Incredibly safe, healthy and active and we’re surrounded by kind, caring supportive people on all fronts.  But all good things must come to an end lest they not be fully appreciated, and so the time nears to resume our marvelous journey. 

Based on feedback (primarily from grandparents), I've added a few more videos prior to the static pictures.  The first is a bit of powder skiing below some avalance fences, followed by some giant slalom training runs of Sydney, Hayden and Halle.

What is wrong with this picture?  Absolutlely nothing.  On a warm afternoon in mid-January, I decided to supervise my kids from an enlightened position while they enjoyed the terrain park.   Note the small child in the air just over the orange box to the left of the beer, between the lift towers.  Pretty sure that is one of mine.



Kitzbuhel Austria with the downhill course in the background



Halle cheering on an American racer in the slalom race



Kitzbuhel slalom



Halle.  powder princess prowess

Hayden focused



Sydney getting after it

Effortless

Hayden and his buddy Sam Chapman.  Because it was there.



Good parenting with great support from Hayden and Sydney.  "Halle you go first!"



Hutten Rallye.  Notice the guy shooting out of the hut

Chappy you made the blog!  Greg Chapman in his salmon colored ski pants.  The kid is obviously comfortable in his skin.   I promise not to show your wife the entrance to this chute!



Halle in her first race at Pettneu



Hayden at Pettneu.  Notice the cables above, in want of chairlifts



Halle strikes gold



Hayden too



Sydney had to make it a trifecta



Poor Homer.  At least he got a donut

With Nella at the top of Schindlergraf at -25



Halle goes rodel bowling.  Strike!



With Nella and the omnipresent Flat Stanley after rodeling. 



I just love this picture of the recent full-moon rise from our patio

Success with my first technical touring climb



My guide Georg viewing that which awaits...



...which was steep and gnarly...

..but it lead to a nice bowl which was ample reward for the climb. This about 10 day old snow and it was fluffy!

The second climb

Second descent into Zurs with 4 mountain goats crossing our tracks

Traci.  Genuinely happy to be skinning

Feigning happiness...tough to see with the sweat pourig out of my eye sockets

More rodeling fun

Halle will read anywhere.  She devoured the last two books of Harry Potter in less than a week, in addtion to studying and skiing every day.