Auf Wiedersehen Austria

Oh to have to depart such an incredible part of the world! Imagine the perfect place for each member of your family, surrounded by good friends, incredible scenery, and a fabulous lifestyle!  But family, friends, the dog, schools at home, not to mention the lure of the East and remaining adventures, await. It is time to move on, but not before reflecting on how happy we have been for our decision to stay in St. Anton for the winter. Have I mentioned that I think I'm lucky? We had great snow (as much as they've had in several decades), great accommodations (couldn't have found a better place, especially given the fabulous owners and their kids), great skiing experiences (racing, guides, deep and light powder, challenging steeps, terrain parks, fabulous sunny days, après ski with great friends, etc.) and an incredibly supportive community. Maybe it is an optimistic attitude but for whatever reason our experience has far exceeded high expectations.

So I think I mentioned in a previous post how proud I was of our kid's homeschooling efforts? Well let's just say that they've enjoyed an extended winter break. Since the 2nd week of February we've been blessed (truly) with visitors and have been incredibly, delightfully busy with great friends. First off came my incredible college friend and roommate Joe Raver and his wife Anne and their boys Robert (11) and Thomas (8).  Hailing from Indiana, but temporarily working and living in Zurich, they are beginning skiers (fyi...skiing sucks in Indiana) but nonetheless made a valiant effort. We pushed and prodded them, and didn't keep quite as tight a reign on their boys when entrusted with them during one morning's skiing. Thomas, not quite able to stop, did a way-too fast snowplow down a steep icy slope into a snow bank, whereupon he double-ejected and flipped into a metal signpost, managing to tear some ligaments in his foot (through his ski boot). Joe and Anne returned to Zurich with Thomas in a soft boot cast.  Rumor has it that Thomas is up and about, and we have yet to hear from their attorney so all bodes well.

Exit the Ravers and enter the Chapmans. 5 exuberant individuals and Oprah, their one of a kind Labrador. Living in Luxembourg, they enjoyed what was supposed to be a leisurely 6 hour drive in 9.5 hours. Early the next morning, I informed them that we were confiscating their car, forcing them to join us for a ski race in a village 30 miles east. Ever the troopers, they willingly obliged and cheered on the Janssen kids to some strong performances. After the races, on our way down the mountain, as we approached the terrain park, our two families experienced a life changing moment, also known as "THE BIG AIR BAG". The big air bag is just that, similar to what emergency personnel use to catch suicidal leapers from tall buildings. Some genius thought that this could be placed after a huge ski jump. Brilliant. Everyone's trepidation was alleviated by Greg Chapman unhesitatingly leading the charge, and showing all that it was as dangerous as a pillow fight. All of the kids (including Traci and me) subsequently threw ourselves into oblivion. It was a very strange feeling to go so fast towards such a large jump and get so much air (regardless if one is 46 or if one is 8) and all cherished the experience. I posted a video which I think does a nice job of capturing the moment.  While the footage may be comical, the commentary by Greg and Traci is classic.  Oh to be so loved!  Soon thereafter Greg and I enjoyed an incredible day of guided skiing and lucked into about 12" of the lightest champagne powder imaginable. We were first off the top of the highest mountain here called Valluga, at 9222 feet.  The run is one of the most famous in the Alps. The skiing routes from the top are limited, and all involve skiing or traversing across an exposed slope of about 35 degrees. If you get caught in an avalanche or fall on the ice, you will enjoy a deadly slide over a cliff of several hundred feet.  So you don’t go when it is icy or when it could slide.  Whenever you care or dare to ski it, you must have a professional (aka not Brian Janssen) guide with you who will sign off and take responsibility for you. With that being said, if you don't think about it, and are an advanced intermediate skier, it is never be a problem (with the exception of each member of the Raver family). So Greg and I and our guide Georg did this for the first time and thankfully it was foggy. We slid and side-stepped down a ridge. Suddenly Greg started to fall backwards towards what surely must be his end. I grabbed his jacket and laughed as he would have fallen about 18" between fluffy snowdrifts about 50' from the danger zone. Still an incredible mind game and we were rewarded with some of the best runs of the year. We enjoyed an incredible day of long, hard hikes and deep, untracked powder.

Enter Jay and Isabella Buck. Jay and Isabella bring an incomparable level of energy and laughter to any environment. As with the Ravers, we thought that the best cure for their jet lag would be to subject them to 3 runs of rodeling (sledding). It was such a blast: parents telling the kids not to wipe each other out then every parent doing just that, with the kids quickly getting even.  There was more carnage and bodily damage in those immediate two hours than occurred during the remainder of the week, or well almost. As the Chapman's week was nearing an end, we decided to take them to the world famous Moosewirt (Moose Bar) for a tiny bit of Apres Ski. Greg wasn't skiing, so he decided to snowshoe and join his wife Erin, Traci, Jay and me at the establishment. After what was assuredly a small number of minutes, we knew that as responsible parents we had to get home to our children so as not to interrupt their studies and fix them a healthy dinner. Being in a hurry, with all on skis except Greg with snowshoes (and having about a half mile to ski to a taxi), I begged Greg to trust me and hop on my back and I would carry his very slightly less than 200 lb. frame down the bunny hill on my back. He reluctantly obliged, and the instant he hopped on my back, one of my ski boots broke, and with a slide off my back of no more than 6", he somehow managed to sprain his ankle. So much for his plans for the Paris Marathon in April.  I like to think that with his being in such feeble condition, that I saved him from a far more serious injury in the near future, and that the marathon could have been deadly.  I’m not sure that he agrees but everyone has their issues. 

So the Chapmans limped back to Luxembourg, comforted that they would have a second chance to tame St. Anton in early April.  Isabella was able to enjoy a couple of days of Austrian gate training with the Janssen kids.  Jay was able to ski the Valluga with me, but this, coupled with several long hikes, gave him such severe blisters that he was unable to ski his last day.  The Janssens (mostly me) were thus 3 for 3 in sending home injured warriors, and I'd hazard to guess that future visitors will not be quite so trusting as the word spreads.

Being on the road for 7 months, it was absolutely delightful to have such great friends visit us.  The kids were all fabulous and had a blast together.  I personally loved having three of my greatest male buddies here in succession, and I know Traci really enjoyed the ladies, the men and the kids.  Thanks guys, you filled a void that only in hindsight did I realize was so huge.

After the departure of our guests, our final days were spent enjoying some great spring skiing.  Halle was a little under the weather but the rest of the family, ably guided by Georg, had their wits scared out of them with yet another Valluga descent; with yet again the reward being a fabulous (and last) powder run (see the second video).  The kids had their last race, and we were sad to say goodbye to their coaches and the wonderful inclusive parents of team Pettneu.  Traci and I enjoyed one last skin up to Gampen peak.  It was about our 30^th trek of the season and our 86^th day skiing.  That’s a good season! 

We’re off to Turkey on March 6, followed by several weeks in India and Nepal before meeting family in Thailand.  We are in for some serious culture and weather shock, but each of us is ready, willing and able for the next stage of our adventure! 

The first video below is the "BIGAIRBAG."  Be sure to have your volume turned up as that is the comical part. 

The below video is our final powder run of the year off the infamous Valluga. Hayden, Sydney, then Traci. At the end of the video, you can see the west face of Valluga.  You traverse the ridge then ski down the face that is in the sun.



Sydney with her second podium pinnacle for Giant Slalom in St. Anton

Hayden and coach Bruno.  Incredible skier and a great coach



Team Pettneu with coaches Jorg and Bruno



Halle with a strong 4th place finish.  Note the girl in 1st holding a ski, thus being sponsored at age 8.  I think that if Halle had GS skis and a dad that would wax them properly the finish would have been very different.  She was less than a second from first in a 54 second race, and is a demon down the hill.



The increble owners of "Haus Pinchbeck" where we are staying.  Peter and Liz Pinchbeck.  Thank you for your endless generosity!

Our troop with the Pinchbeck's kids Jemima and James (and their one of a kind wonder dog Max)




Joe Raver...He's tall but excessively skinny with a dangerously light BMI



Joe and Anne.  The only thing less becoming than a bald head is a mop of grey.  He's overmarried as well.



Coach Jorg warms up Sydney's legs



Sydney en route to a strong 3rd place finish in Zams.  What a set up for the turn!

Hayden.  I wish I could carve like he does.



Halle keeping it tight!  She has zero fear...



as shown by her launch into the bigairbag.  Despite the backwards lean she has amazing air presence and landed perfectly flat every time.

Hayden goes big while Greg Chapman gawks enviously at the courage required to get such big air



Sydney at the apex of her jump



Traci not to be outdone.  Your eyes don't deceive you.  That is not Syd wearing her mom's coat (Traci should have thought of that...it would have fooled me).  She was so scared yet she sucked it up and let herself launch after a lot of spousal pressure.  We're still very happily married.

Greg "salmon pants" Chapman and uber-guide Georg on our first Valluga descent. Notice the yellow warning sign and the picture of the person tumbling off a cliff. Very reasssuring. Thank goodness for the fog.

Since we have the Bucks and Chapmans together, why not start off with a 40 degree warm up run down a rocky chute under Schindlergrafbahn that threatened the Chapman's marriage (you had to climb through a safety net to access)?  Two things stand out:   Halle being the first kid and your humble photographer being the only one at the bottom ready to catch any sliders.  Notice Greg looking to Halle for some pointers.  Quality parenting yet again.

Greg Chapman and Jay Buck before their lesson from the Rodelmaster



Jay Buck on our first hike/climb with guide Georg.  I was being a good friend and going slower than my usual slow pace.  That is called a good wingman Jay.  Jay's knees are shredded so he was a total trooper.



From the previous picture, I turned 90 degrees left and took this photo. Almost indiscernable in the distance, just before the shadow, is our guide Georg.  He obviously doesn't like to wait.



Jay enjoyed the fruits of his hiking labors.  The peak between his poles is where Georg is standing in the previous picture.

Now that is a real smile! Jay rewarded for his big day with a little apres ski at the Moosewirt, undoubtedly the world's craziest apres ski bar.

Sydney jumping over the road tunnel between Stuben and Zurs.



Boy BFFs Hayden and Sam Chapman at the top of the Madloch Chair



Skiing "the needle" between Zurs and Stuben.  This was very steep and about 2000 vertical feet, which is why Jay, Greg and I were positioned should we need to catch a sliding skier.  Not sure if you can see the snowballs that are threatening the photographer.  I was nervous to take the kids here.  The kids didn't think twice about it.  Halle is telling Greg to keep his weight and hands forward and Greg is saying "like this?"



The kids and Erin at the bottom of the needle. I love this picture



More fine parenting.  The entrance to the famous Stierloch run in Zurs.  Keeping the local ski tuners in business.

Isabella Buck joins the crew in the incredibly picturesque village of Lech



Traci, Halle and Isabella with a little apres ski dancing to a live band



More fine parenting with the introduction to arm wrestling, and Isabella surprises Hayden in their first match



but Hayden gets his revenge.

Jay and Traci in the world famous "Ice Bar" in Lech.  Super cool, enormous building made entirely of ice.



Sydney and Isabella

At the "Schishow" which is a skiing, jumping, fireworks performance every Wednesday night



Greg and Erin Chapman

Jay Buck



One of our last skins up to Gampen



With Hayden at the "Rodel Alm" or toboggan restaurant



With Hayden and Sydney at the top of Valluga




Sydney, Hayden and Georg waiting for Brian and Traci on the traverse down Valluga.  Hayden is standing where Greg Chapman thought he was going to fall and die.  Down to the right is a pretty mind boggling exposure.

l-r Erin Chapman, Traci, Jay Buck, Isabella Buck, Sydney, Brian, Mackenzie Chapman, Ben Chapman, Halle, Sam Chapman, Hayden and Greg Chapman