Turkey

So we bid adieu to St. Anton.   The kids were troopers yet again, slogging large packs and jumping right back into traveling mode.  Traci and I donned our old traveling gear, we call it “well worn casual” and we were off.  After a 3 month respite, I was again really liking the feel of my REI traveler khakis, with the multizip pockets (tougher for pickpockets), ample other pockets, and other high function features.  When Traci mentioned that she really liked the fit on me (build me up) but then in the next sentence mentioned the noticeable wear and the sweat stains in my buttocks, I was shaken but not deterred.  Surely, I reasoned, they are only in need of a good washing, and will have to do. You will see them proudly worn in most pictures. 

We had a very easy time traveling to Zurich on the train.  45 minutes prior to our flight departing to Istanbul we came to the customs gate.  The customs official flipped madly through my passport trying to determine when I entered the European Union.  He pointed to my entry stamp from Luxembourg around the 20^th of November and said that we couldn’t be in the E.U. for more than 90 days (we were on day 110 or so).  He said this was a BIG problem, and had to get his supervisor.  We were then escorted away to a small detention room by the supervisor.  We again professed our ignorance.  After about 20 minutes of filling out various forms, he warned us that he would “write a report” and that we may have to pay about $600 each if we want to come to Switzerland again.  I never imagined that my three children would be on Switzerland’s most wanted list for an innocent overstay in Europe.  I guess they didn’t want us to spend any more money.   If I would have been alone, I would have been immediately jailed, but with the 3 kids and honest ignorance,  the customs officials said what the heck and pointed us to our gate.  We were met halfway by a flight attendant and ran about ¾ of a mile to our plane.  Panting and sweating, last aboard, we were greeted by the scowls of all on the full airplane, as we were likely going to make everyone a little late.  Quality moment.

For some reason (probably Egypt where we were such targets for thousands of unscrupulous vendors), I was silently dreading our upcoming three days in Istanbul.  I couldn’t have been more wrong.  Istanbul is an amazing metropolis with an unmatched history and culture.  98% Islam, the people are very tolerant.  Their history is an amazing blend of Christianity and Islam and their historical structures are incredibly well-preserved.   I had never given much thought or study to Turkey, but when you look at a map it is pretty much the epicenter of the world.  The vendors, while aggressive by western standards, do indeed take no for an answer.  In addition the quality of many of the goods (rugs, ceramics, leather goods, spices) is amazing.  We could have enjoyed a few more days of pure shopping and sightseeing, but our meager traveling bags and budget are already full to the brim.

On our first day we traveled to the “old town” of Istanbul, with our guide Siran.   Siran could be a stand in for Al Pacino.  He spent several years as a child in the U.S. and spoke perfect English.   He was incredibly passionate and proud of his country and this was evident in his work.  We started with the famous Blue Mosque.  Completed in 1616, it is an immense building that rivals any cathedral in Europe.   One of many things we learned about Islam is that the worship of any icons (people, animals, etc.) is forbidden, and that the followers should focus on Mohammed and God and other icons are distracting.  So the mosques have no elaborate paintings, but rather incredibly detailed tile and stonework.  The insides of the mosques are very basic, with almost the entire space being covered with a prayer rug.

 

I thought we had seen the biggest and best example of architecture in the city, until we were next led to the Hagia Sophia, or church of the Divine Wisdom. Built in just 5 years by over 10,000 workers (over 1/3 of whom died) during the reign of the Roman Emperor Justinian (AD 537), it remained the greatest church in Christendom until the conquest of Constantinople in 1453 by Sultan Mehmet II.  Mehmet II then converted Hagia Sophia into a Mosque.  Rather than destroying the Christian icons, he had them covered.  After world war one, these were uncovered.  There was international pressure on Turkey (which was on the losing side of WWI) to convert Hagia Sophia back into a church, but the situation was deftly handled by Atatürk, the leader of the Republic of Turkey, who proclaimed it a museum.  The scale of this building is simply awesome, on par with St. Peter’s in Rome, the Duomo in Florence, or St. James’ in London, but the fact that it was built a millenium before these monuments, in a fraction of the time, is nothing short of incredible. 

We were fortunate to spend our second evening with Michael and Momar Asamere.   Their daughter Elaini played soccer with Halle in 2010, and they moved to Istanbul from Seattle this past fall.  Incredible people, they treated us to one of the most amazing home cooked meals we have ever enjoyed. 

The next day visited the Topkapi Palace (residence of the sultans from approximately 1500-1800, when the Ottoman Empire was the world’s greatest empire), the Grand Bazaar with over 4000 covered shops, the spice market with incredible food and spices (think Pike Place Market X 100, with a much better smell), we ate incredible food, and we walked and walked.   

Next up was a short flight to the Cappadocia region in Central Turkey.  This area is probably closest in geography to Moab in Utah.  The area was an ancient lakebed, which became sandstone, which in turn was covered by basalt.  As the waters and wind have worn through the hard basalt, they have uncovered and rapidly eroded the sandstone, and in many cases creating these remarkable pillars (many of them capped with basalt headstones).  In addition the sandstone creates a perfect medium for digging caves, and the area has been used for cave dwelling for thousands of years. 

So we spent the first day touring a 4 story underground city, followed by an “open air museum” which consisted of dozens of elaborately ornamented caves that were used as churches.  Incredible.  We had a fabulous introduction at a local pottery workshop where the kids were encouraged to make some masterpieces and their parents were subsequently enticed to buy other masterpieces.   So much for not shopping.

Our second day was focused on being ACTIVE which started with a 4:50 a.m. wake up call for a hot air balloon ride.  After a quick shuttle drive, we enjoyed a bread and coffee breakfast with 300 or so of our best Japanese friends and then re-boarded a shuttle with our hot air balloon pilot for an incredible journey.   It was about 25 degrees and we were all frozen but the scenery from the air was spectacular.  With body temperatures that averaged around 90 degrees, we returned to our hotel, took hot baths or got back in bed, then prepared for our next adventure:  biking.  Our guide and 6 bikes met us at our hotel.  Prepared for a polar excursion, we adjusted our bikes and headed downhill.  Gravity is a good thing when you’re on an unfamiliar bike, when much of your trail is snow, and when the remainder of your trail is mud.  Sydney and Hayden are biking machines, but Halle just hasn’t had as much seat time as the other two had by her age.  Undeterred, and closely guarded by her mother and father’s secret service-esque escort, off we went.  Despite the cold and snow and mud, it was a blast.  I would have been scared witless had I been in Halle’s shoes, but despite many a near crash, she soldiered on.  When we finally came to a flat area, I thought I’d check in and it went something like this:

Brian:  “Halle, how is it going, are you having fun?”

Halle:  “I’m having a blast dad.  This is really fun.  I love the wide open spaces.  In fact, this is way more fun than touring.  I’d rather do this all day than go on another tour.  This isn’t tiring at all but touring is exhausting!”

Later Traci’s check in with Halle went something like:

Traci:  “Halle, how is your energy?”

Halle:  “It’s fine mom.  I think I have enough energy for the rest of the bike ride, enough for a trek, and enough for a Turkish Bath, but I REALLY don’t think I have enough for another tour.”

Despite our limited garments being caked in mud, the biking was a blast.  This was soon followed by a four mile hike through some amazing scenery.  After a full day of activities, it was decided that we were all in dire need of a Turkish Bath.  The Romans, when ruling Turkey, introduced the Turks to their baths.  Roman baths were famous for their social and political aspects.  The Turks, with the Islamic ritual of pre-prayer washing, changed this lovely gathering to incorporate what could easily be described as torture.  Men and women of course are separated.  The first stage is a mud facial, and I haven’t had mud on my face since I was a kid (with the exception of that morning’s bike ride).  Then the mud must be dried for 15 minutes in a sauna.  Hayden and I baked in this sauna, with the thermometer reading 70 degrees Celsius.  I don’t think my body has ever been subject to such temperature extremes in one day. That was the easy part.  Next up we were laid flat on a marble table, rinsed with scalding hot water, then we were “peeled” by several masochists.  This involves covering the body with a layer of bubbles, then vigorously scrubbing all exposed skin (read…all skin) with a rough mitten.   Thankfully Hayden had fallen asleep and his tormentor thought he was cute and went easy on him.  Mine however must have recently crossed the border from Iraq with a grudge to bear.  After 5 minutes of pain, he crossed my arms in multiple positions and attempted to crack my shoulders or ribs or I don’t know what by jolting me against the hard marble with all his body weight.  I was strong and didn't confess. I staggered to the shower and swimming pool, thankful to have all systems operating normally. 

Istanbul will be at the top of my list of places to return.  Early March was much colder than we expected, but there were no crowds.  I’d love to visit the coast and explore the thousands of waterways when it is warm!  The kids did remarkably well learning about a very complex and foreign culture.  The whole experience was a reminder to me that the more that I learn, the more I realize how little I know of our incredibly vast and complicated world.

Halle is ready to travel while Traci attempts to deal with some late hour packing



At the St. Anton train station



Halle, in her unique, self-selected traveling wardrobe



On the airport shuttle



The courtyard of the blue mosque



Interior of the blue mosque with Siran.  The columns in the background are about 25' in diameter



Hagia Sophia



Inside Hagia Sophia with Michael Asamere.  In the background are Islamic disks for God and Muhammed, and in between is Jesus and Mary.  Nice khakis Brian!



The underground cistern



Momar, Alexander, Elaini and Michael Asamere



Overlooking the Bosphorus



Topkapi Palace



One entrance to the grand bazaar

Fishermen on a bridge over "the golden horn", a body of water connecting old and new Istanbul.  We were the only people out of about 20 million that weren't wearing some shade of black or grey.



Hayden and Halle on the Galata Tower.  Sydney remained safely inside the door.



Traco and kids at the Suleymaniye Mosque



Despite the sweet smiles and tall tales about being good kids, this is what they are really like 98% of the time



Traci in a passageway in the underground city.  She is red-faced and still laughing because she was watching your humble photograper squeeze through prior to taking this picture.  We haven't spoken since.

Overlooking "pigeon valley"



Hayden at the pottery wheel



Halle and her masterpiece.  Yes those are her famous pajamas.  When in dire need of long sleeves for cold weather layering, flannel pajamas are an excellent choice.



Syd shows the master how it is done



Hayden and his new best friend getting ready for the balloon ride

The smiles defy the cold.  Khakis aren't a great choice.



Typical landscape



"Fairy tale chimneys"  These are often hallowed out.



Up up and away



There are up to 80 balloons at a time



The city of Goreme

"Helping"deflate the balloon



Nothing like an easy bike ride



Past the hard part



Hayden whatever you do please try not to get your only jeans and sweatshirt muddy!



The end of the ride

Good example of the basalt capped pillars



Imagination valley with a camel in the background



On the hike



Sydney with digital proof of how onery her brother can be.  I had my fill of small tunnels and opted out of this one.