19 October 2011

Italy I


Let me say upfront that I by and large intensely dislike large cities. I like space, no crowds, no secondhand smoke, and no rude people. I’m claustrophobic and it was with some dread that I prepared for a large city experience. Rome has shocked me. There are ruins and monuments everywhere and for the most part they are surrounded by parks or are integrated into the working landscape. Our hotel sits by an old theater and now on top of the ruins of this theater there are apartments. It is just so different from anything I’ve seen. Any other major city has been constantly or newly renovated but Rome has these amazing grand monuments and spaces and many of them are thousands of years old. In Athens there are a couple of monuments/ruins that are well preserved but it is as if 1% of the city is ancient and 99% modern. In Rome reminders are everywhere of how grand the city was at the height of its dominance, and much of that grandness has been retained. Maybe it was because Athens and the Greeks were pretty much a pillaged punching bag for thousands of years and the Romans gave out more punishment than they received. I was going to say the Romans didn’t get their butt’s kicked as often but then thought better of it as this is a family blog. I’m sure that Rome is different outside of the city walls, but the heart of the ancient city is remarkably open and inviting.
 

Our first day adventures were focused on the Colosseum and the Forum.  Finished in about 80 AD after 8 years, the Colosseum remains an amazing spectacle of engineering.  Nearby we saw a 3D movie about ancient Rome and life wouldn’t be complete without the amazing Ipad App that our guide had which allowed you to stand and turn in any direction and see what Rome was like now and what it was like “then.”
 

In the afternoon we drove a few miles out of town on the Appian Way and the kids settled into “Gladiator School” in celebration of Sydney’s birthday.  A very tough looking yet kind and hilarious guy ran the place.  He looked like the diabolical marine sergeant in Avatar.  After learning about all of the weapons used by the gladiators, it was time for the makeshift arena.  Armed with wooden swords, the kids learned five offensive moves, followed by 5 defensive moves.  The instructor would then shout out the number of the move and the kids had to perform it.  It took a few minutes for the kids to get used to his sense of humor as he shouted “I own you now, not your parents!” and  “Pay attention!”  Traci and I were dying laughing as he tried to get 3 hysterically laughing kids to focus and engage him and each other in mock combat.  After he sparred with them, he turned them loose on each other and refereed as they went at it with foam swords.  Halle is a demon with a sword.  Hayden and Sydney were so shocked and were laughing so hard at her aggressiveness that she whipped them both.  The kids absolutely loved the experience.  Gladiator training was followed by a birthday dinner for Sydney.  I can’t believe our baby girl is 12.
 

Our second day involved a walking tour to discover Rome.  I can’t remember all of the places we walked other than the Spanish steps, the Trevi fountain and the Pantheon.  What the kids will mostly remember was the few hours in the afternoon they spent learning to make gelato at the famous Giolitti Gelateria.   This is the most popular gelateria in Rome, renowned for their use of fresh and natural ingredients.  Back in the kitchen the kids scrubbed down, put on hair nets and gloves, and helped prepare batches of banana and chocolate ice cream.  The hard work done, the gracious owner Nazzareno seated us and forced us to choose whatever we wanted from the opulent menu. Talk about kids in a candy shop.  Halle led the charge and insisted on 3 scoops and of course whipped cream.  Pure delight Outside of the ice cream, the kids most enjoyed splashing each other in the fountains, climbing anything within reach, jumping off anything climbable, and trying to decipher many of the inappropriate adult messages on the various postcards and t-shirts.  Quality time.
 

Day 3 was an unforgettable visit to the Vatican and its museums.  Our tour guide has worked for the Vatican museums for 25 years and in our case it was good to know “the man.”  He gave us tickets to see Pope Benedict XVI give his weekly morning address in St. Peter’s Square.  We were 4 rows back and about 25 yards from “El Papa”. There were probably 80-100,000 people packed in the square, with the loudest being the Chinese delegation seated in front of us. Perhaps ignorantly l assumed that most Chinese were Buddhist but these folks must not have qualified for Buddhism as they were too obnoxious.  Standing in their seats, answering loud cell phone rings and talking loudly on their phones when the pope was speaking.  I’m confident that based solely on my etiquette that I’ll reach the pearly gates well before these people even though they were wearing garments which must hold them in high regard in front of their flock.  So in addition to the 24 Catholics from China, there were pilgrims from every continent in what was a huge pep rally.  The pope gave an address (I think it was on the Middle East but it was spoken in Italian) for about 30 minutes, followed by welcoming, in at least 6 different languages, many of the various groups from around the world.  As he called out the name of the country and parish, that group would stand, scream, maybe sing a little song they made for the pope, and he’d acknowledge them with a wave.  This went on for several hours while we cooked in the sun.  The whole spectacle was really interesting for me, the history of the papacy, the power and influence of the pope, and the sheer awe of sitting in front of the towering basilica.Kids were unbelievably good and thought the pope was cool, especially with his red shoes, when he kissed babies offered by the crowd, and lest I forget, the Pope Mobile.  At 87 years old, Benedict XVI was really impressive.  After the ceremony we were lead past the throngs with our guide Luciano. Again, he was the man.  We were like a hot knife through the butter of the crowds.  We visited the collection of pope mobiles, from chariot to modern day.  The Vatican museums are extraordinary.  They are enormous.  I won’t bore you with the details but with the access that our guide had, we were able to see many cool places that were off limits to the general public:  Pope Leo’s private prayer room, where the walls are decorated with gold paint, the gold coming as a gift from the queen of Spain (Isabella), who got the gold from the ships of Christopher Columbus on his return from the new world. The room of tears off the Sistine chapel where the newly elected Pope is first dressed and prepares for his first address. Huge frescoes by Raphael and Michelangelo. The Sistine Chapel, full of tourists then waiting with our guide until it emptied and being in there alone for a few minutes.  It was an incredible, wonderful , educational experience for each of us.

 
Our final day in Rome was spent an hour south of the city enjoying the ancient Roman sport of Gocarticus.  Invented in 347 BC, these machines are largely unchanged since their conception, with the only significant change being the addition of safety helmets in the 2007.  After a couple of rounds of high speed fun, we visited a small town called Albano in the “Roman Castle” country southeast of Rome.  Romulus and Remus were born in Albano before being abandoned, saved, suckled and founding the town of Rome.  Again our guide Luciano was able to show us some really interesting sites such as one of the first churches in Italy.  Christianity was forbidden in Rome until the 4th century AD but it secretly thrived in many areas, including this summer home of the emperor Augustus.  While he was in Rome in the first century AD, enforcing the rule which forbade Christianity, Christians were secretly holding services in his summer palace.  Our guide Luciano took us to his home in Albano and his wife and daughters treated us to home-made Tiramisu.  Wonderful family of a kind man with a seemingly endless knowledge and love of Rome.   When I asked them where they liked to vacation most, instead of the nearby wonders of Rome his daughter replied: “Los Angeles, Miami, San Francisco, New York, anywhere in America!”  The grass is always greener.

 
Next stop was Pompeii (about one hundred miles south of Rome).The forecast called for clear and 75 so we donned shorts and light clothes (Halle in a beautiful dress of course).  We experienced a few small thundershowers in Africa but for the most part for the last 3 months we have been enjoying an endless summer of dry weather and temperatures in the 80’s or 90’s.  Until today that is.  What started as a few sprinkles turned into a deluge.  We had a wonderful guide who was super engaging but we were drenched and freezing.  I took about 5 pictures and didn’t dare take another for fear of ruining my camera.  Oh that’s another thing.  Digital cameras are wonderful but fragile.  Mine has survived unscathed but Traci’s got something inside the lens which is kind of like having a flat Stanley in each picture.  Hayden’s got dust in it and the shutter won’t fully open.  Traci somehow lost Halle’s in her helping Halle carry a few things.  Sydney had her first camera stolen in Africa and then spent about $130 of her own money on a new one only to have the shutter dented beyond repair during travel the next week.  Guess what she got for her birthday?  Third time is the charm.  So back to Pompeii  .A few things we learned:

ü  Pompeii was a city of about 15,000 and was a port. It was established around 700 BC, similar to Rome and became part of the Roman Empire in the first century BC

ü  Pompeii was buried in about 20-30 feet of ash by a huge eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 A.D., and was excavated in the 18th century.

ü  Sidewalks were raised above the sloping streets so the occasional rain would wash away all of the animal feces.  Crosswalks were raised stepping stones.  We were almost swept away by some of the torrents in the streets and can attest to the effectiveness of their engineering.

ü  Many sailors would come from far away lands to enjoy Pompeii’s brothels.  There were penises carved into the stones of the street that served as directional arrows to point the way to the brothels.  Much like the current day barber poles, brothels were identified by a penis figurine about the door.  Since many customers didn’t speak Latin they had lovely frescos painted with various sexual acts that were used to help communicate intent or desire.  Now I know where McDonalds got the idea for the #5 Sausage McMuffin combo meal.

 
After about an hour in the storm, completely soaked despite raincoats and umbrellas, we retreated to the warmth of our minivan and headed to Naples for dinner. While flat bread was prepared similarly for thousands of years, it wasn’t until 1872 in Naples that Neopolitan Something Something made a tribute to the Italian flag for Queen Marguerite by combining Red (tomato sauce), White (mozzarella) and Green (Basil leaf) on pizza bread. Little trivial fact that like corn, tomatoes originated in the Americas.  At a local pizzeria the kids learned how to make pizza the original way, and we were able to enjoy the fruits of each of their labors.

From Naples we ventured further south for 2 days to the picturesque cliff-side town of Positano on the Amalfi Coast.  We visited the Isle of Capri and did some fabulous hiking both there and around Positano.  Huge cliffs, spectacular blue seas, impossibly narrow streets and alleys.  Here, as we watched the kids squeal with delight as they were pounded by the cold surf into the pebble beach, we came to the firm conclusion that after skiing in the Alps this winter, our future destinations should revolve largely around ocean beaches with a nearby places to hike, bike or run.  Kind of like what we left in Seattle and Idaho…just kidding.  No serious homesickness yet and yesterday marked the completion of 3 months on the road.

We’ve had the kids learn Roman numerals, introduced Hayden and Halle to Latin, read books on Roman history, visited incredible archeological wonders and the indelible impression left on them is that they want to be professional go cart drivers or gladiator trainers when they grow up. They’ll get busy training for those careers as soon as they are done swimming.


 


The Colosseum



Syd overlooking the Forum



Recent excavations have uncovered a new homo sapiens sub-species "Romanicus Onerius"


Full-belly laugh
"Why won't he listen?"


"Just a spoonful of sugar..."


Pope Benedict XVI



Sistine Chapel to ourselves and Michaelangelo's "last judgement" and of course no pictures allowed


Halle enjoying the ancient sport
  

Looking for a good time in Pompeii?  Head that way!
 
With our guide Luciano...on the balcony of the brick building behind them is where Mussolini announced to the crowd that Italy would be joining with Hitler's forces in WWII.  Bad choice.

12

She ate most of it

Little demon goes for the crown jewels
Looking up into the always open dome of the pantheon


Gladiators were never this happy

Laying down the law

Fountain in front of the pantheon

St. Peter's Square and the papal address

Pope Mobile (taken by Hayden)

Our brother is so sweet let's give him a kiss...
 
Run away

A car can't get much smaller...note it's parked sideways

Tasting the world's freshest banana gelato

Waiting in the hot sun for the Pope to arrive...quick kids pick up a book and make it look like you're studying!

Hanging with the Pope

Don't ask don't tell
Little miscreants


Mouth of truth...if you don't tell the truth you get your fingers or hand bitten off...typing is tough now

The deluge of Pompeii 2011

Plaster cast of a pompeii citizen covering mouth as he was buried by the eruption

Pizza making class in Naples
View from our hike of Positano

Mid October swimming in Positano
and again
Young scholars on the train from Naples to Venice

It's been 3 months and we're doing fine...seriously we're OK!

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