Southern France

The last two weeks have been a joyous bit of normalcy. We have cooked most of our meals, made coffee in a nice drip coffee maker, watched a few movies and have enjoyed a remarkably normal fall routine, aside from not having our lives dictated to us by kid's fall soccer. Our mornings have been filled with homeschooling and most afternoons have been spent biking or running or off on a local adventure. We played 9 holes of golf. We went to a local church and attended a Catholic service performed by Gregorian monks. Traci forced me to take a 10 mile run while the kids biked along offering encouragement. We visited the local bakeries in search of the perfect chocolate croissant for Halle.

 

We have been staying at a really cool wine estate called Chateau Canet, near a small village called Rustiques, which is close to Carcassone.  The area is about an hour north of the Spanish border and an hour west of the Mediterranean Sea.  The estate (about 300 acres) has its origins in the 12^thcentury. 4 years ago a wonderful couple (Floris and Victoria) purchased the property to fulfill a dream. Floris was in the wine business and Victoria was in the tourism industry. They live here with their two children and run the farm (wine and olives) and also rent out a few small apartments for people wanting to visit this area and all it has to offer.  It is a really beautiful region and has been a great set up for our family.

 

This is the largest wine producing area in the world.  It is chock full of vineyards, castles and caves and interspersed with a quaint village every few miles.  The area is famous for its caves.  One of the caves we visited could house the Eifel tower.  Another was 3 miles long.  A third, Niaux, contained prehistoric wall paintings that were over 14,000 years old.  Incredible not only because of the age, but the fact that they were very artistic and they were ½ mile deep in a cave where they would have had to take primitive torches way the heck in there to paint, and then they painted with iron and charcoal based paints that were intended to survive for eons.  I’d be scared going in there with a few friends with good flashlights. Maybe that says something about the friends I keep, but I found it fascinating that these artists would delve for miles into the caves with nothing more than rudimentary torches or animal fat lanterns.

 

So I could wax poetic about our pseudo normal adventures and bore you to tears.  Instead I’ll get philosophical and share some thoughts on the time we’ve spent together and trying to live out of one suitcase.  Spending this time together as a family has been great.  There are moments where each of us needs our personal time and space, but being together for so much time has been fantastic.  I think this has been the biggest adjustment for a lot of families that take the type of plunge we’ve taken. One or both parents work hectic jobs and they then are in for shock therapy after being with their kids so much.  In our situation, Traci and I have been very fortunate to be able to spend a lot of time with the kids prior to traveling, and our travels have merely enhanced this blessing!  My mother has often told me that she has enjoyed every phase of her life but that her favorite was when my brother and I were young (and of course sweet and innocent).  I have a feeling that the same will be true for my life, and in particular this trip will be the pinnacle.  Not that it will be all downhill from here; it’s just that I’m really trying to savor these moments that we share!


Since departing Seattle with 9 bags, we have downsized to 6.  We’ve learned the hard way that it is expensive to check more than one bag.  Most of the time we’ve had a cab or minivan take us around and there has been plenty of room and help.  Big exception was getting on and off ferries in Greece.  Your humble author insisted that we all be equipped with North Face waterproof duffels which can also be worn as backpacks.  They work really well when you’re my size, and carrying a 40 or 50 lb. back pack isn’t a big deal.  When you’re 8 years old and 60 pounds soaking wet, trying to carry one is a different story.  In addition the kids have their small day back packs/carry-ons.  So getting on and off the ferries was quite comical with each of us loaded to the gills carrying as much weight as physically possible in the middle of a human stampede.  Traci’s backpack required two NFL linemen to carry so she finally chose to downsize to a rolling hard case. The funny thing is that most of the weight and space aren't taken up by everyday clothing but rather books, malaria medicines, running shoes, the emergency rain coat, etc.

 

Speaking of clothing….Whilst strolling through the airport in Venice a few weeks ago I was quite convinced that my family was dressed near the bottom quartile of “nicely dressed” people. Then I reconsidered when I didn’t see another person dressed as “casually” as I in the two hours prior to boarding. I was going to use the word “shabbily” instead of “casually” but that’s a little harsh. I would have used “shabbily” if it weren’t for the fact that I was wearing clean short socks under my Keen sandals.  For some reason, this leading fashion trend hasn’t caught on outside of Seattle.  So comfortable, so light, and yet so very functional.  Our entire family has worn their sandals almost every day, usually with socks except for Hayden, who endangers all around with his invisible cloud of foot odor doom.  In addition, I didn’t see any other shorts that were as functional as my REI cargo adventurers:  metal button that won’t blow out even under the occasional extreme duress.  Not one but two zippered pockets for cash, wallet, passports, etc. and several more bonus pockets for the not so valuable items.  Bonus built in adjustable nylon belt.  Who cares about stains and a few loose threads?  And T shirts, oh glorious T-shirts.  I could wear a collared or long-sleeved shirt but the collars and sleeves are extra weight and in the warm climates we’ve been to it is just a matter of minutes before the shirt is soaked.  I’ve bought two new t-shirts on the trip and the pleasure of putting on a crisp, light, fresh new shirt is nearly indescribable.  If I only could part more easily with some of the sentimental rags I’m still carrying.  So while the Europeans wear their crisp pants, fancy loafers and snappy shirts, I won’t be swayed and will continue to promote casual, functional attire.  Maybe this winter while in the Alps I’ll take a break and travel to the Milan airport all dressed to the nines (maybe a scarf?) just to show other travelers that I too can look pretty?  Probably not.  Probably be all dressed up for après ski in jeans and keens and a t-shirt.  Readers of this blog may already have begun to fully identify our wardrobe by looking at the pictures and playing the “look it’s the same in this picture too!”game.  Fine.  Fine.

Tomorrow our sweet Sydney turns 12.  We’ll spend our final morning here and then drive an hour east to Toulouse and catch a short flight to Rome and a enjoy a special dinner.  We’ll be adventuring for about 10 days in Rome, Pompeii, Naples, Positano, and Venice before spending a couple of weeks of downtime in Tuscany.  More comical adventures await. It’s supposed to be 80 in Rome tomorrow so I need to go set out my travel clothes…short socks, keens, REI adventurer shorts and likely a bluish t-shirt.  Dressing up for Syd’s birthday!  Traci is a lucky woman.
 


The kitchen in our apartment and the kids making fresh apple cobbler

 

Homeschooling is exhausting



Overlooking the vineyards and laughing at the photographer



Bison in the Niaux cave.  Since you aren't allowed to take pictures I unashamedly copied it from their website



Biking to the local bakery

Sydney stopping for a snack

Halle was everywhere in Carcassonne

So cute I had to add this too



The market at Carcassonne



Preparing fresh apples for cobbler

Stalagmites grow up from the floor

Stalagmites impression also intrepreted as "you put that there mister and I'll return the favor and then some"

Spelunking

Professor Hayden

Helping stomp and mix.  Very tough on the arms as you don't want to fall through.  You also don't want to stain your only and most special shorts

We don't see where dad went!

Ogre rescues the princess from the highest room in the tallest tower



Traci and the kids at the "Citi du Carcassonnne"

Biking along the Midi Canal.  Built in the 1700's it passes nearby and is nearly 300 miles long.  Incredible place to boat, bike or run



Ice cream at the castle



No clue why they found our dirty car window to be so entertaining



In our Sunday best at the Abbey in LaGrass



I would pay anything for a swing like that



Traci taking cover in the trees between fairways.  Yes the girls are playing the same hole

  

Incontrovertible proof that Hayden's swing doesn't come from his father.  Big word for the author offering undeniable support to the Buffalo Theory