Turkey

So we bid adieu to St. Anton.   The kids were troopers yet again, slogging large packs and jumping right back into traveling mode.  Traci and I donned our old traveling gear, we call it “well worn casual” and we were off.  After a 3 month respite, I was again really liking the feel of my REI traveler khakis, with the multizip pockets (tougher for pickpockets), ample other pockets, and other high function features.  When Traci mentioned that she really liked the fit on me (build me up) but then in the next sentence mentioned the noticeable wear and the sweat stains in my buttocks, I was shaken but not deterred.  Surely, I reasoned, they are only in need of a good washing, and will have to do. You will see them proudly worn in most pictures. 

We had a very easy time traveling to Zurich on the train.  45 minutes prior to our flight departing to Istanbul we came to the customs gate.  The customs official flipped madly through my passport trying to determine when I entered the European Union.  He pointed to my entry stamp from Luxembourg around the 20^th of November and said that we couldn’t be in the E.U. for more than 90 days (we were on day 110 or so).  He said this was a BIG problem, and had to get his supervisor.  We were then escorted away to a small detention room by the supervisor.  We again professed our ignorance.  After about 20 minutes of filling out various forms, he warned us that he would “write a report” and that we may have to pay about $600 each if we want to come to Switzerland again.  I never imagined that my three children would be on Switzerland’s most wanted list for an innocent overstay in Europe.  I guess they didn’t want us to spend any more money.   If I would have been alone, I would have been immediately jailed, but with the 3 kids and honest ignorance,  the customs officials said what the heck and pointed us to our gate.  We were met halfway by a flight attendant and ran about ¾ of a mile to our plane.  Panting and sweating, last aboard, we were greeted by the scowls of all on the full airplane, as we were likely going to make everyone a little late.  Quality moment.

For some reason (probably Egypt where we were such targets for thousands of unscrupulous vendors), I was silently dreading our upcoming three days in Istanbul.  I couldn’t have been more wrong.  Istanbul is an amazing metropolis with an unmatched history and culture.  98% Islam, the people are very tolerant.  Their history is an amazing blend of Christianity and Islam and their historical structures are incredibly well-preserved.   I had never given much thought or study to Turkey, but when you look at a map it is pretty much the epicenter of the world.  The vendors, while aggressive by western standards, do indeed take no for an answer.  In addition the quality of many of the goods (rugs, ceramics, leather goods, spices) is amazing.  We could have enjoyed a few more days of pure shopping and sightseeing, but our meager traveling bags and budget are already full to the brim.

On our first day we traveled to the “old town” of Istanbul, with our guide Siran.   Siran could be a stand in for Al Pacino.  He spent several years as a child in the U.S. and spoke perfect English.   He was incredibly passionate and proud of his country and this was evident in his work.  We started with the famous Blue Mosque.  Completed in 1616, it is an immense building that rivals any cathedral in Europe.   One of many things we learned about Islam is that the worship of any icons (people, animals, etc.) is forbidden, and that the followers should focus on Mohammed and God and other icons are distracting.  So the mosques have no elaborate paintings, but rather incredibly detailed tile and stonework.  The insides of the mosques are very basic, with almost the entire space being covered with a prayer rug.

 

I thought we had seen the biggest and best example of architecture in the city, until we were next led to the Hagia Sophia, or church of the Divine Wisdom. Built in just 5 years by over 10,000 workers (over 1/3 of whom died) during the reign of the Roman Emperor Justinian (AD 537), it remained the greatest church in Christendom until the conquest of Constantinople in 1453 by Sultan Mehmet II.  Mehmet II then converted Hagia Sophia into a Mosque.  Rather than destroying the Christian icons, he had them covered.  After world war one, these were uncovered.  There was international pressure on Turkey (which was on the losing side of WWI) to convert Hagia Sophia back into a church, but the situation was deftly handled by Atatürk, the leader of the Republic of Turkey, who proclaimed it a museum.  The scale of this building is simply awesome, on par with St. Peter’s in Rome, the Duomo in Florence, or St. James’ in London, but the fact that it was built a millenium before these monuments, in a fraction of the time, is nothing short of incredible. 

We were fortunate to spend our second evening with Michael and Momar Asamere.   Their daughter Elaini played soccer with Halle in 2010, and they moved to Istanbul from Seattle this past fall.  Incredible people, they treated us to one of the most amazing home cooked meals we have ever enjoyed. 

The next day visited the Topkapi Palace (residence of the sultans from approximately 1500-1800, when the Ottoman Empire was the world’s greatest empire), the Grand Bazaar with over 4000 covered shops, the spice market with incredible food and spices (think Pike Place Market X 100, with a much better smell), we ate incredible food, and we walked and walked.   

Next up was a short flight to the Cappadocia region in Central Turkey.  This area is probably closest in geography to Moab in Utah.  The area was an ancient lakebed, which became sandstone, which in turn was covered by basalt.  As the waters and wind have worn through the hard basalt, they have uncovered and rapidly eroded the sandstone, and in many cases creating these remarkable pillars (many of them capped with basalt headstones).  In addition the sandstone creates a perfect medium for digging caves, and the area has been used for cave dwelling for thousands of years. 

So we spent the first day touring a 4 story underground city, followed by an “open air museum” which consisted of dozens of elaborately ornamented caves that were used as churches.  Incredible.  We had a fabulous introduction at a local pottery workshop where the kids were encouraged to make some masterpieces and their parents were subsequently enticed to buy other masterpieces.   So much for not shopping.

Our second day was focused on being ACTIVE which started with a 4:50 a.m. wake up call for a hot air balloon ride.  After a quick shuttle drive, we enjoyed a bread and coffee breakfast with 300 or so of our best Japanese friends and then re-boarded a shuttle with our hot air balloon pilot for an incredible journey.   It was about 25 degrees and we were all frozen but the scenery from the air was spectacular.  With body temperatures that averaged around 90 degrees, we returned to our hotel, took hot baths or got back in bed, then prepared for our next adventure:  biking.  Our guide and 6 bikes met us at our hotel.  Prepared for a polar excursion, we adjusted our bikes and headed downhill.  Gravity is a good thing when you’re on an unfamiliar bike, when much of your trail is snow, and when the remainder of your trail is mud.  Sydney and Hayden are biking machines, but Halle just hasn’t had as much seat time as the other two had by her age.  Undeterred, and closely guarded by her mother and father’s secret service-esque escort, off we went.  Despite the cold and snow and mud, it was a blast.  I would have been scared witless had I been in Halle’s shoes, but despite many a near crash, she soldiered on.  When we finally came to a flat area, I thought I’d check in and it went something like this:

Brian:  “Halle, how is it going, are you having fun?”

Halle:  “I’m having a blast dad.  This is really fun.  I love the wide open spaces.  In fact, this is way more fun than touring.  I’d rather do this all day than go on another tour.  This isn’t tiring at all but touring is exhausting!”

Later Traci’s check in with Halle went something like:

Traci:  “Halle, how is your energy?”

Halle:  “It’s fine mom.  I think I have enough energy for the rest of the bike ride, enough for a trek, and enough for a Turkish Bath, but I REALLY don’t think I have enough for another tour.”

Despite our limited garments being caked in mud, the biking was a blast.  This was soon followed by a four mile hike through some amazing scenery.  After a full day of activities, it was decided that we were all in dire need of a Turkish Bath.  The Romans, when ruling Turkey, introduced the Turks to their baths.  Roman baths were famous for their social and political aspects.  The Turks, with the Islamic ritual of pre-prayer washing, changed this lovely gathering to incorporate what could easily be described as torture.  Men and women of course are separated.  The first stage is a mud facial, and I haven’t had mud on my face since I was a kid (with the exception of that morning’s bike ride).  Then the mud must be dried for 15 minutes in a sauna.  Hayden and I baked in this sauna, with the thermometer reading 70 degrees Celsius.  I don’t think my body has ever been subject to such temperature extremes in one day. That was the easy part.  Next up we were laid flat on a marble table, rinsed with scalding hot water, then we were “peeled” by several masochists.  This involves covering the body with a layer of bubbles, then vigorously scrubbing all exposed skin (read…all skin) with a rough mitten.   Thankfully Hayden had fallen asleep and his tormentor thought he was cute and went easy on him.  Mine however must have recently crossed the border from Iraq with a grudge to bear.  After 5 minutes of pain, he crossed my arms in multiple positions and attempted to crack my shoulders or ribs or I don’t know what by jolting me against the hard marble with all his body weight.  I was strong and didn't confess. I staggered to the shower and swimming pool, thankful to have all systems operating normally. 

Istanbul will be at the top of my list of places to return.  Early March was much colder than we expected, but there were no crowds.  I’d love to visit the coast and explore the thousands of waterways when it is warm!  The kids did remarkably well learning about a very complex and foreign culture.  The whole experience was a reminder to me that the more that I learn, the more I realize how little I know of our incredibly vast and complicated world.

Halle is ready to travel while Traci attempts to deal with some late hour packing



At the St. Anton train station



Halle, in her unique, self-selected traveling wardrobe



On the airport shuttle



The courtyard of the blue mosque



Interior of the blue mosque with Siran.  The columns in the background are about 25' in diameter



Hagia Sophia



Inside Hagia Sophia with Michael Asamere.  In the background are Islamic disks for God and Muhammed, and in between is Jesus and Mary.  Nice khakis Brian!



The underground cistern



Momar, Alexander, Elaini and Michael Asamere



Overlooking the Bosphorus



Topkapi Palace



One entrance to the grand bazaar

Fishermen on a bridge over "the golden horn", a body of water connecting old and new Istanbul.  We were the only people out of about 20 million that weren't wearing some shade of black or grey.



Hayden and Halle on the Galata Tower.  Sydney remained safely inside the door.



Traco and kids at the Suleymaniye Mosque



Despite the sweet smiles and tall tales about being good kids, this is what they are really like 98% of the time



Traci in a passageway in the underground city.  She is red-faced and still laughing because she was watching your humble photograper squeeze through prior to taking this picture.  We haven't spoken since.

Overlooking "pigeon valley"



Hayden at the pottery wheel



Halle and her masterpiece.  Yes those are her famous pajamas.  When in dire need of long sleeves for cold weather layering, flannel pajamas are an excellent choice.



Syd shows the master how it is done



Hayden and his new best friend getting ready for the balloon ride

The smiles defy the cold.  Khakis aren't a great choice.



Typical landscape



"Fairy tale chimneys"  These are often hallowed out.



Up up and away



There are up to 80 balloons at a time



The city of Goreme

"Helping"deflate the balloon



Nothing like an easy bike ride



Past the hard part



Hayden whatever you do please try not to get your only jeans and sweatshirt muddy!



The end of the ride

Good example of the basalt capped pillars



Imagination valley with a camel in the background



On the hike



Sydney with digital proof of how onery her brother can be.  I had my fill of small tunnels and opted out of this one.

Auf Wiedersehen Austria

Oh to have to depart such an incredible part of the world! Imagine the perfect place for each member of your family, surrounded by good friends, incredible scenery, and a fabulous lifestyle!  But family, friends, the dog, schools at home, not to mention the lure of the East and remaining adventures, await. It is time to move on, but not before reflecting on how happy we have been for our decision to stay in St. Anton for the winter. Have I mentioned that I think I'm lucky? We had great snow (as much as they've had in several decades), great accommodations (couldn't have found a better place, especially given the fabulous owners and their kids), great skiing experiences (racing, guides, deep and light powder, challenging steeps, terrain parks, fabulous sunny days, après ski with great friends, etc.) and an incredibly supportive community. Maybe it is an optimistic attitude but for whatever reason our experience has far exceeded high expectations.

So I think I mentioned in a previous post how proud I was of our kid's homeschooling efforts? Well let's just say that they've enjoyed an extended winter break. Since the 2nd week of February we've been blessed (truly) with visitors and have been incredibly, delightfully busy with great friends. First off came my incredible college friend and roommate Joe Raver and his wife Anne and their boys Robert (11) and Thomas (8).  Hailing from Indiana, but temporarily working and living in Zurich, they are beginning skiers (fyi...skiing sucks in Indiana) but nonetheless made a valiant effort. We pushed and prodded them, and didn't keep quite as tight a reign on their boys when entrusted with them during one morning's skiing. Thomas, not quite able to stop, did a way-too fast snowplow down a steep icy slope into a snow bank, whereupon he double-ejected and flipped into a metal signpost, managing to tear some ligaments in his foot (through his ski boot). Joe and Anne returned to Zurich with Thomas in a soft boot cast.  Rumor has it that Thomas is up and about, and we have yet to hear from their attorney so all bodes well.

Exit the Ravers and enter the Chapmans. 5 exuberant individuals and Oprah, their one of a kind Labrador. Living in Luxembourg, they enjoyed what was supposed to be a leisurely 6 hour drive in 9.5 hours. Early the next morning, I informed them that we were confiscating their car, forcing them to join us for a ski race in a village 30 miles east. Ever the troopers, they willingly obliged and cheered on the Janssen kids to some strong performances. After the races, on our way down the mountain, as we approached the terrain park, our two families experienced a life changing moment, also known as "THE BIG AIR BAG". The big air bag is just that, similar to what emergency personnel use to catch suicidal leapers from tall buildings. Some genius thought that this could be placed after a huge ski jump. Brilliant. Everyone's trepidation was alleviated by Greg Chapman unhesitatingly leading the charge, and showing all that it was as dangerous as a pillow fight. All of the kids (including Traci and me) subsequently threw ourselves into oblivion. It was a very strange feeling to go so fast towards such a large jump and get so much air (regardless if one is 46 or if one is 8) and all cherished the experience. I posted a video which I think does a nice job of capturing the moment.  While the footage may be comical, the commentary by Greg and Traci is classic.  Oh to be so loved!  Soon thereafter Greg and I enjoyed an incredible day of guided skiing and lucked into about 12" of the lightest champagne powder imaginable. We were first off the top of the highest mountain here called Valluga, at 9222 feet.  The run is one of the most famous in the Alps. The skiing routes from the top are limited, and all involve skiing or traversing across an exposed slope of about 35 degrees. If you get caught in an avalanche or fall on the ice, you will enjoy a deadly slide over a cliff of several hundred feet.  So you don’t go when it is icy or when it could slide.  Whenever you care or dare to ski it, you must have a professional (aka not Brian Janssen) guide with you who will sign off and take responsibility for you. With that being said, if you don't think about it, and are an advanced intermediate skier, it is never be a problem (with the exception of each member of the Raver family). So Greg and I and our guide Georg did this for the first time and thankfully it was foggy. We slid and side-stepped down a ridge. Suddenly Greg started to fall backwards towards what surely must be his end. I grabbed his jacket and laughed as he would have fallen about 18" between fluffy snowdrifts about 50' from the danger zone. Still an incredible mind game and we were rewarded with some of the best runs of the year. We enjoyed an incredible day of long, hard hikes and deep, untracked powder.

Enter Jay and Isabella Buck. Jay and Isabella bring an incomparable level of energy and laughter to any environment. As with the Ravers, we thought that the best cure for their jet lag would be to subject them to 3 runs of rodeling (sledding). It was such a blast: parents telling the kids not to wipe each other out then every parent doing just that, with the kids quickly getting even.  There was more carnage and bodily damage in those immediate two hours than occurred during the remainder of the week, or well almost. As the Chapman's week was nearing an end, we decided to take them to the world famous Moosewirt (Moose Bar) for a tiny bit of Apres Ski. Greg wasn't skiing, so he decided to snowshoe and join his wife Erin, Traci, Jay and me at the establishment. After what was assuredly a small number of minutes, we knew that as responsible parents we had to get home to our children so as not to interrupt their studies and fix them a healthy dinner. Being in a hurry, with all on skis except Greg with snowshoes (and having about a half mile to ski to a taxi), I begged Greg to trust me and hop on my back and I would carry his very slightly less than 200 lb. frame down the bunny hill on my back. He reluctantly obliged, and the instant he hopped on my back, one of my ski boots broke, and with a slide off my back of no more than 6", he somehow managed to sprain his ankle. So much for his plans for the Paris Marathon in April.  I like to think that with his being in such feeble condition, that I saved him from a far more serious injury in the near future, and that the marathon could have been deadly.  I’m not sure that he agrees but everyone has their issues. 

So the Chapmans limped back to Luxembourg, comforted that they would have a second chance to tame St. Anton in early April.  Isabella was able to enjoy a couple of days of Austrian gate training with the Janssen kids.  Jay was able to ski the Valluga with me, but this, coupled with several long hikes, gave him such severe blisters that he was unable to ski his last day.  The Janssens (mostly me) were thus 3 for 3 in sending home injured warriors, and I'd hazard to guess that future visitors will not be quite so trusting as the word spreads.

Being on the road for 7 months, it was absolutely delightful to have such great friends visit us.  The kids were all fabulous and had a blast together.  I personally loved having three of my greatest male buddies here in succession, and I know Traci really enjoyed the ladies, the men and the kids.  Thanks guys, you filled a void that only in hindsight did I realize was so huge.

After the departure of our guests, our final days were spent enjoying some great spring skiing.  Halle was a little under the weather but the rest of the family, ably guided by Georg, had their wits scared out of them with yet another Valluga descent; with yet again the reward being a fabulous (and last) powder run (see the second video).  The kids had their last race, and we were sad to say goodbye to their coaches and the wonderful inclusive parents of team Pettneu.  Traci and I enjoyed one last skin up to Gampen peak.  It was about our 30^th trek of the season and our 86^th day skiing.  That’s a good season! 

We’re off to Turkey on March 6, followed by several weeks in India and Nepal before meeting family in Thailand.  We are in for some serious culture and weather shock, but each of us is ready, willing and able for the next stage of our adventure! 

The first video below is the "BIGAIRBAG."  Be sure to have your volume turned up as that is the comical part. 

The below video is our final powder run of the year off the infamous Valluga. Hayden, Sydney, then Traci. At the end of the video, you can see the west face of Valluga.  You traverse the ridge then ski down the face that is in the sun.



Sydney with her second podium pinnacle for Giant Slalom in St. Anton

Hayden and coach Bruno.  Incredible skier and a great coach



Team Pettneu with coaches Jorg and Bruno



Halle with a strong 4th place finish.  Note the girl in 1st holding a ski, thus being sponsored at age 8.  I think that if Halle had GS skis and a dad that would wax them properly the finish would have been very different.  She was less than a second from first in a 54 second race, and is a demon down the hill.



The increble owners of "Haus Pinchbeck" where we are staying.  Peter and Liz Pinchbeck.  Thank you for your endless generosity!

Our troop with the Pinchbeck's kids Jemima and James (and their one of a kind wonder dog Max)




Joe Raver...He's tall but excessively skinny with a dangerously light BMI



Joe and Anne.  The only thing less becoming than a bald head is a mop of grey.  He's overmarried as well.



Coach Jorg warms up Sydney's legs



Sydney en route to a strong 3rd place finish in Zams.  What a set up for the turn!

Hayden.  I wish I could carve like he does.



Halle keeping it tight!  She has zero fear...



as shown by her launch into the bigairbag.  Despite the backwards lean she has amazing air presence and landed perfectly flat every time.

Hayden goes big while Greg Chapman gawks enviously at the courage required to get such big air



Sydney at the apex of her jump



Traci not to be outdone.  Your eyes don't deceive you.  That is not Syd wearing her mom's coat (Traci should have thought of that...it would have fooled me).  She was so scared yet she sucked it up and let herself launch after a lot of spousal pressure.  We're still very happily married.

Greg "salmon pants" Chapman and uber-guide Georg on our first Valluga descent. Notice the yellow warning sign and the picture of the person tumbling off a cliff. Very reasssuring. Thank goodness for the fog.

Since we have the Bucks and Chapmans together, why not start off with a 40 degree warm up run down a rocky chute under Schindlergrafbahn that threatened the Chapman's marriage (you had to climb through a safety net to access)?  Two things stand out:   Halle being the first kid and your humble photographer being the only one at the bottom ready to catch any sliders.  Notice Greg looking to Halle for some pointers.  Quality parenting yet again.

Greg Chapman and Jay Buck before their lesson from the Rodelmaster



Jay Buck on our first hike/climb with guide Georg.  I was being a good friend and going slower than my usual slow pace.  That is called a good wingman Jay.  Jay's knees are shredded so he was a total trooper.



From the previous picture, I turned 90 degrees left and took this photo. Almost indiscernable in the distance, just before the shadow, is our guide Georg.  He obviously doesn't like to wait.



Jay enjoyed the fruits of his hiking labors.  The peak between his poles is where Georg is standing in the previous picture.

Now that is a real smile! Jay rewarded for his big day with a little apres ski at the Moosewirt, undoubtedly the world's craziest apres ski bar.

Sydney jumping over the road tunnel between Stuben and Zurs.



Boy BFFs Hayden and Sam Chapman at the top of the Madloch Chair



Skiing "the needle" between Zurs and Stuben.  This was very steep and about 2000 vertical feet, which is why Jay, Greg and I were positioned should we need to catch a sliding skier.  Not sure if you can see the snowballs that are threatening the photographer.  I was nervous to take the kids here.  The kids didn't think twice about it.  Halle is telling Greg to keep his weight and hands forward and Greg is saying "like this?"



The kids and Erin at the bottom of the needle. I love this picture



More fine parenting.  The entrance to the famous Stierloch run in Zurs.  Keeping the local ski tuners in business.

Isabella Buck joins the crew in the incredibly picturesque village of Lech



Traci, Halle and Isabella with a little apres ski dancing to a live band



More fine parenting with the introduction to arm wrestling, and Isabella surprises Hayden in their first match



but Hayden gets his revenge.

Jay and Traci in the world famous "Ice Bar" in Lech.  Super cool, enormous building made entirely of ice.



Sydney and Isabella

At the "Schishow" which is a skiing, jumping, fireworks performance every Wednesday night



Greg and Erin Chapman

Jay Buck



One of our last skins up to Gampen



With Hayden at the "Rodel Alm" or toboggan restaurant



With Hayden and Sydney at the top of Valluga




Sydney, Hayden and Georg waiting for Brian and Traci on the traverse down Valluga.  Hayden is standing where Greg Chapman thought he was going to fall and die.  Down to the right is a pretty mind boggling exposure.

l-r Erin Chapman, Traci, Jay Buck, Isabella Buck, Sydney, Brian, Mackenzie Chapman, Ben Chapman, Halle, Sam Chapman, Hayden and Greg Chapman